The four of us left Standing Bear around 9:00 under a slight rain however it stopped shortly after we left. We took off the rain gear and before we knew it Shlep was gone. She was into some fast hiking.
Cygnet, Subby, and I cruised along but after awhile Cygnet (Cygi) and I lost Subby on an uphill. She and I hiked on for most of the day. It was overcast and foggy for most of it and shortly before Max Patch we ran into two hikers coming south. The usual pleasantries were exchanged and then we found out they were heading to Hot Springs.
Cygi looked at me and at them and said, "So are we and I believe you are heading in the wrong direction". They had misplaced themselves on Max Patch and when we reached it I could see why. The fog was very thick and it was difficult to navigate. We drew arrows in the snow so Subby would find his way easier. We made it tobthe shelter and once again I set my tent up in the snow.
The following day ended up with Cygi and I hiking together again and once more it was under cloudy skies and mostly snowy ground. We did run into Carol and Donny who were doing a southbound stretch back to Standing Bear. Since they couldn't do the Smokies they figured they would get some hiking in.
We arrived at the shelter 3 miles outside of Hot Springs and set up camp. They goal was an early start the next morning so we would a full day in town. When you are hiking you want to maximize town time without having to pay for two nights in town so you lay up short the night before, roll in early the next day and if you plan on staying you only pay for a night.
Of course I was out first thing and I arrived in Hot Springs around 8:00. I grabbed a cup of coffee and sat in a rocking chair on the porch of the restaurant and waited for the others.
Cygi and Subby made it down around 9:00 with Shlep not to far back. We all piled into the restaurant for breakfast. After the server brought the food she looked at the table and told us she should have put us at a table for six. The table was filled with plates of food!
After eating we went to Elmer's and checked in. Elmer runs a B&B type place out of an old Victorian style building. The place itself is pretty cool and during hiking season he pretty much caters to the hikers. We got situated and then the town chores began.
You would think being in town would be for relaxing but there is a lot you have to take care of so you are running all around. Laundry, post office, figuring out how much food you need to pack out of town and then hitting the grocery store to get it. It eventually gets done and then you can relax.
The nice part about this stop was that the sun was out and it was warm. Actually warm. It was the first time in six days that I have seen the sun! It was a great day!
That evening the four of us went through a half gallon of ice cream while watching Blazing Saddles. After that it was bedtime. Subby and I were heading out in the morning. Shlep was taking another day in town and Cygi hadn't decided yet.
All it takes sometimes is a good day to make up for a lot of bad days out here though I wouldn't trade a minute of being on the trail no matter how bad.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Sunday, March 21, 2010
The Smokies
I started up the hill to Icewater Spring Shelter. Weather was moving in and a few light flakes were starting to come down. With only 3 miles to go I figured I might beat the snow. I did beat it, but barely. 5 minutes from the shelter it started coming down hard.
In the shelter were two guys who were in for the night and two who were out hiking and planning to go down one of the side trails. This is when I started hearing about what lay ahead. Supposedly three hikers who had started from Davenport Gap (where I was heading) had passed through and said it was really bad past Pecks Corner, 7 miles up. They had said it was the worst 3 days of their lives!
Hmmm .... I settled in and the two took off. The snow was coming down pretty good by now and I was happy to be dry and warm. Others rolled in for the night and then, around 5:30 the two that had headed out came back. They had made it about 1/2 mile past Charlie's Bunion which was only about a mile up the trail. "It's bad, waist high drifts and just hard going", they said.
By now the snow had lightened and I was beginning to question my idea to jump to Newfound Gap. Oh well .. Just have to see what's up in the morning.
Day 2 -- There were 4 to 6 inches of new snow in the morning. All previous footprints were buried by the new snow. I quickly made the decision to take "zero" in the shelter (a zero is when you do no miles for the day). I didn't want to brek trail and there were 3 others that were going on.
Everyone left and I settled in. I was warm and I spent the morning reading my book and watching as a light snow began to fall again. Early afternoon brought the arrival of Carol and Donny, two section hikers that were coming up from Newfound Gap. The road there had been closed to late morning. They had planned to go on but that put a cramp in there style. The three of us were planning on heading out the next morning.
It started to snow again and as I stared at it I heard voices. The three who had left earlier this morning show back up. "Not good", I'm thinking. They threw out the good news, bad news line. It good between here and Charlie's Bunion but after that it goes downhill fast. I am liking this less and less.
Around 5:00 two guys roll in from the north looking like death warmed over. They had started at Davenport Gap and they truly were at the end of their rope. Everything they owned was soaked and all they wanted was to be off the mountain as fast as they could. Again, "It's bad out there".
Day 3 -- Monday morning. Overall about a foot of new snow has fallen. Carol, Donny, and I were going to forge ahead. Four other thru-hikers had pulled in last night and they were going to follow shortly.
The tree branches sagged under the weight of the new snow and as the pathbreaker I was trying knock as much snow off them as I could before passing under. It didn't do much good and before long I looked like a snowman. The snow was deep and the trail somewhat hard to discern because of the new snow. The wind was pickimg up as we hit the ridgeline and if you took one wrong step you would sink to your thigh.
All I was thinking was "This is the good part"?. I really, really do not want to see the bad. About 3/4 mile in and a lot of work I came to a stop and looked back at Carol and Donny. "I'm not doing this. We still have 7 miles to go and we haven't even hit the bad stuff yet". No rationalization needed just plain common sense told me back out. So I did.
The plan now became, get to Newfound Gap and figure out a way to get to Standing Bear Farm just past Davenport Gap. Carol and Donny had followed my lead and the three of hooked a ride from Newfound Gap to Gatlinburg where we were able to get in touch with Curtis. Curtis runs Standing Bear and his wife Maria came to get us..
What a change! There is no snow. It actually feels warm and I have zero regrets about skipping the Smokies. I found that I was not the only one with that thought. At Standing Bear I met Shlep, Subbie, and Cygnet, three thru-hikers that jumped up because of the weather. The plan, as is with most hiker who jump up, is to pick up the section they miss at the end.
The four of us chatted, ate, and got into a wicked game of Jenga. Carol and Donny had gone into town and they brought us back some fresh fruit. Thank you so much for the treat!
So now the plan is to roll out in the morning with Cygnet, Shlep, and Subbie and make my way to Hot Springs, NC.
In the shelter were two guys who were in for the night and two who were out hiking and planning to go down one of the side trails. This is when I started hearing about what lay ahead. Supposedly three hikers who had started from Davenport Gap (where I was heading) had passed through and said it was really bad past Pecks Corner, 7 miles up. They had said it was the worst 3 days of their lives!
Hmmm .... I settled in and the two took off. The snow was coming down pretty good by now and I was happy to be dry and warm. Others rolled in for the night and then, around 5:30 the two that had headed out came back. They had made it about 1/2 mile past Charlie's Bunion which was only about a mile up the trail. "It's bad, waist high drifts and just hard going", they said.
By now the snow had lightened and I was beginning to question my idea to jump to Newfound Gap. Oh well .. Just have to see what's up in the morning.
Day 2 -- There were 4 to 6 inches of new snow in the morning. All previous footprints were buried by the new snow. I quickly made the decision to take "zero" in the shelter (a zero is when you do no miles for the day). I didn't want to brek trail and there were 3 others that were going on.
Everyone left and I settled in. I was warm and I spent the morning reading my book and watching as a light snow began to fall again. Early afternoon brought the arrival of Carol and Donny, two section hikers that were coming up from Newfound Gap. The road there had been closed to late morning. They had planned to go on but that put a cramp in there style. The three of us were planning on heading out the next morning.
It started to snow again and as I stared at it I heard voices. The three who had left earlier this morning show back up. "Not good", I'm thinking. They threw out the good news, bad news line. It good between here and Charlie's Bunion but after that it goes downhill fast. I am liking this less and less.
Around 5:00 two guys roll in from the north looking like death warmed over. They had started at Davenport Gap and they truly were at the end of their rope. Everything they owned was soaked and all they wanted was to be off the mountain as fast as they could. Again, "It's bad out there".
Day 3 -- Monday morning. Overall about a foot of new snow has fallen. Carol, Donny, and I were going to forge ahead. Four other thru-hikers had pulled in last night and they were going to follow shortly.
The tree branches sagged under the weight of the new snow and as the pathbreaker I was trying knock as much snow off them as I could before passing under. It didn't do much good and before long I looked like a snowman. The snow was deep and the trail somewhat hard to discern because of the new snow. The wind was pickimg up as we hit the ridgeline and if you took one wrong step you would sink to your thigh.
All I was thinking was "This is the good part"?. I really, really do not want to see the bad. About 3/4 mile in and a lot of work I came to a stop and looked back at Carol and Donny. "I'm not doing this. We still have 7 miles to go and we haven't even hit the bad stuff yet". No rationalization needed just plain common sense told me back out. So I did.
The plan now became, get to Newfound Gap and figure out a way to get to Standing Bear Farm just past Davenport Gap. Carol and Donny had followed my lead and the three of hooked a ride from Newfound Gap to Gatlinburg where we were able to get in touch with Curtis. Curtis runs Standing Bear and his wife Maria came to get us..
What a change! There is no snow. It actually feels warm and I have zero regrets about skipping the Smokies. I found that I was not the only one with that thought. At Standing Bear I met Shlep, Subbie, and Cygnet, three thru-hikers that jumped up because of the weather. The plan, as is with most hiker who jump up, is to pick up the section they miss at the end.
The four of us chatted, ate, and got into a wicked game of Jenga. Carol and Donny had gone into town and they brought us back some fresh fruit. Thank you so much for the treat!
So now the plan is to roll out in the morning with Cygnet, Shlep, and Subbie and make my way to Hot Springs, NC.
Friday, March 19, 2010
NOC to Newfound Gap
March 12 - 15 --- "You know you've been hiking too long when you look at the Nantahala River and think, what a great water source, to bad it is so close to town".
I had to smile when I saw this. At the NOC I found the hiker register for 2005 and this was the comment Break-a-Leg put in it on March 31. We had hiked together from the start and would for another 300 miles. My comment was, "In for lunch, laundry,and then out." That made me smile also because later that afternoon we ended up checking in for the night.
Last night turned into a little party. About 14 of us were here. Mostly the people I've been seeing since the start. Like I've mentioned we are the forefront of the herd to come and it has already developed into a cool little group. Good people to be around. Unfortunately this may be the last I see of them because of my plan.
Moonpie made it to the NOC and we made our way to Sheltowee and Waterfall's place in Franklin. They were putting us up for the night. The main reason Moonpie had come down was to give a talk to the Nantahala Hiking Club that evening.The NHC takes care of 90 miles of the AT in the area. They are quite active and it was great to meet some of the members.
The one funny thing about meeting the member's was when one lady walked up to me and said, "Were you hiking in Vermont last October"? I looked at her while thinking how do you know that. "With that girl and her dog", she said. Again I was startled. "GG", I replied. "Yes! GG. we saw you two on Killington". Talk about a small world!
After the meeting Sheltowee, Waterfall, Moonpie, and I stayed up way past hiker midnight just chatting. The next day we all went to breakfast and then Moonpie and I headed to Newfound Gap. As we drove up the mountain to the gap the snow began to appear again and my apprehension began to build. She dropped me off, I shouldered my pack and began the 3 mile climb to the shelter. I am going to leave it at that because what transpires over the next 48 hours deserves an entry by itself.
I want to give thanks to Sheltowee and Waterfall for sharing their house and for their wonderful generosity. For any of those interested I first met Sheltowee on the PCT in '08. Of course I cannot leave out Moonpie! It was good to see her again. Thanks for everything Moonpie and I'll see you again soon!
I had to smile when I saw this. At the NOC I found the hiker register for 2005 and this was the comment Break-a-Leg put in it on March 31. We had hiked together from the start and would for another 300 miles. My comment was, "In for lunch, laundry,and then out." That made me smile also because later that afternoon we ended up checking in for the night.
Last night turned into a little party. About 14 of us were here. Mostly the people I've been seeing since the start. Like I've mentioned we are the forefront of the herd to come and it has already developed into a cool little group. Good people to be around. Unfortunately this may be the last I see of them because of my plan.
Moonpie made it to the NOC and we made our way to Sheltowee and Waterfall's place in Franklin. They were putting us up for the night. The main reason Moonpie had come down was to give a talk to the Nantahala Hiking Club that evening.The NHC takes care of 90 miles of the AT in the area. They are quite active and it was great to meet some of the members.
The one funny thing about meeting the member's was when one lady walked up to me and said, "Were you hiking in Vermont last October"? I looked at her while thinking how do you know that. "With that girl and her dog", she said. Again I was startled. "GG", I replied. "Yes! GG. we saw you two on Killington". Talk about a small world!
After the meeting Sheltowee, Waterfall, Moonpie, and I stayed up way past hiker midnight just chatting. The next day we all went to breakfast and then Moonpie and I headed to Newfound Gap. As we drove up the mountain to the gap the snow began to appear again and my apprehension began to build. She dropped me off, I shouldered my pack and began the 3 mile climb to the shelter. I am going to leave it at that because what transpires over the next 48 hours deserves an entry by itself.
I want to give thanks to Sheltowee and Waterfall for sharing their house and for their wonderful generosity. For any of those interested I first met Sheltowee on the PCT in '08. Of course I cannot leave out Moonpie! It was good to see her again. Thanks for everything Moonpie and I'll see you again soon!
Friday, March 12, 2010
Hiawassee, GA to Nantahala Outdoor Center
March 7 - 11
"Whoa", I hesitated thinking I heard a voice but dismissed it. "Hey Bucko! I said Whoa"! I stopped realizing it was my body. "When are you gonna give it a break"?
Over the last several years I have learned to listen to my body when it speaks so I decided today was the day to "give it a rest".
Let me recap the events since Hiawassee. On Sunday morning around 9:30 I crossed into North Carolina. From my previous hike I knew what was in store for me shortly after crossing the border, the climb out of Bly's Gap. It is and wasn't a picnic. NC wants to make sure you don't think you're hot stuff for finishing Georgia so it humbles you quickly. What I had forgotten were the next two climbs. NC likes to send you straight up the mountain. Why waste trail with switchbacks when it can send you straight up!
It was early afternoon when I finished the climb up Standing Indian Mtn. and I was thinking that all was good because the climbs were over for the day. Haha jokes on you! What i hadn't thought of was the snow, lots and lots of snow, three to four feet of snow, all along the ridgeline which is where I was going. Normally the ridge walk along Standing Indian is a nice enjoyable hike. That day it was like I was being led to a Siberian labor camp.... Step, step, posthole, posthole, step, three more postholes, some of which were thigh high.
I had thought of going to Carter Gap Shelter but when I hit Beech Gap where there was water and a place to set up the tent I called it quits. It was the longest and hardest day up to this point. Needless to say I slept well that night!
The next day wasn't quite so bad. I ran into Brian and Peter about mid morning and we flip flopped around one another all day. We climbed Albert Mtn. which was the steepest climb up to this point. The three of us ended up staying at Rock Gap Shelter that night. The good thing about this is the weather has been sunny and warm though there was a chance of rain coming in the next couple of days.
The next morning I said my see you laters because they were heading into Franklin and I was pushing past. It was overcast but not cold and the ups and downs continued. Around noon I reached the Siler Bald Shelter split off and that is where I stopped for lunch. Good thing because things went downhill in a hurry after that.
If I thought the ridgeline after Standing Indian was bad I was not expecting the Bataan Death March that I hit on this afternoon. It was, by far, the most grueling and strenous 4.5 hours of hiking (if you can even call it hiking) I have ever done. Postholing ever other step, trying to figure where you can step without postholing then postholing to the thigh and then down to the knees with a double posthole. It did not seem it would ever end!
I finally reached the Wayah Bald Shelter. My feet, ankles, and knees were screaming at me and I was exhausted. I had never sworn at an inanimate object as much as I did that afternoon!. Three others came into the shelter that night and they also expressed the same feeling I had about the day.
So, here it is, the 11th of March. Yesterday there were only a couple of hours worth of postholing and then I could actually "hike". What a unique concept..walking without sinking to your knees.. It's almost enjoyable. At this moment I am at the NOC, Nantahala Outdoor Center, sitting in a bunkroom, out of the rain (and it is raining hard!), listening to my body. I have also made another decision for various reasons. I am going to cut my Smokies hike in half.
I am out here to have fun and hike until I have to go back to the Whites. During those long hours of postholing I kept thinking about how this was what I was going through when I blew out my knee it '08 on the PCT. There are far greater stakes this time, based on future plans, and I would be sorely pissed if something were to happen while I am doing something that really wasn't on the agenda in the first place. If I did tweak a knee it would put a huge cramp on the plans for the PCT/NZ adventure so I am going to get back on at Newfound Gap and do the last half of the Smokies.
That's it for now ... be well all
"Whoa", I hesitated thinking I heard a voice but dismissed it. "Hey Bucko! I said Whoa"! I stopped realizing it was my body. "When are you gonna give it a break"?
Over the last several years I have learned to listen to my body when it speaks so I decided today was the day to "give it a rest".
Let me recap the events since Hiawassee. On Sunday morning around 9:30 I crossed into North Carolina. From my previous hike I knew what was in store for me shortly after crossing the border, the climb out of Bly's Gap. It is and wasn't a picnic. NC wants to make sure you don't think you're hot stuff for finishing Georgia so it humbles you quickly. What I had forgotten were the next two climbs. NC likes to send you straight up the mountain. Why waste trail with switchbacks when it can send you straight up!
It was early afternoon when I finished the climb up Standing Indian Mtn. and I was thinking that all was good because the climbs were over for the day. Haha jokes on you! What i hadn't thought of was the snow, lots and lots of snow, three to four feet of snow, all along the ridgeline which is where I was going. Normally the ridge walk along Standing Indian is a nice enjoyable hike. That day it was like I was being led to a Siberian labor camp.... Step, step, posthole, posthole, step, three more postholes, some of which were thigh high.
I had thought of going to Carter Gap Shelter but when I hit Beech Gap where there was water and a place to set up the tent I called it quits. It was the longest and hardest day up to this point. Needless to say I slept well that night!
The next day wasn't quite so bad. I ran into Brian and Peter about mid morning and we flip flopped around one another all day. We climbed Albert Mtn. which was the steepest climb up to this point. The three of us ended up staying at Rock Gap Shelter that night. The good thing about this is the weather has been sunny and warm though there was a chance of rain coming in the next couple of days.
The next morning I said my see you laters because they were heading into Franklin and I was pushing past. It was overcast but not cold and the ups and downs continued. Around noon I reached the Siler Bald Shelter split off and that is where I stopped for lunch. Good thing because things went downhill in a hurry after that.
If I thought the ridgeline after Standing Indian was bad I was not expecting the Bataan Death March that I hit on this afternoon. It was, by far, the most grueling and strenous 4.5 hours of hiking (if you can even call it hiking) I have ever done. Postholing ever other step, trying to figure where you can step without postholing then postholing to the thigh and then down to the knees with a double posthole. It did not seem it would ever end!
I finally reached the Wayah Bald Shelter. My feet, ankles, and knees were screaming at me and I was exhausted. I had never sworn at an inanimate object as much as I did that afternoon!. Three others came into the shelter that night and they also expressed the same feeling I had about the day.
So, here it is, the 11th of March. Yesterday there were only a couple of hours worth of postholing and then I could actually "hike". What a unique concept..walking without sinking to your knees.. It's almost enjoyable. At this moment I am at the NOC, Nantahala Outdoor Center, sitting in a bunkroom, out of the rain (and it is raining hard!), listening to my body. I have also made another decision for various reasons. I am going to cut my Smokies hike in half.
I am out here to have fun and hike until I have to go back to the Whites. During those long hours of postholing I kept thinking about how this was what I was going through when I blew out my knee it '08 on the PCT. There are far greater stakes this time, based on future plans, and I would be sorely pissed if something were to happen while I am doing something that really wasn't on the agenda in the first place. If I did tweak a knee it would put a huge cramp on the plans for the PCT/NZ adventure so I am going to get back on at Newfound Gap and do the last half of the Smokies.
That's it for now ... be well all
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Low Gap Shelter to Hiawassee, GA
March 4 - 6 ...... It is 9:10 AM on the 6th and I am in Hiawasee, GA. drinking a cup of coffee and writing this post. The goal for today is resupply and head back onto the trail. Last night I stayed at Deep Gap Shelter, 3.7 miles from the road to town. I was up and out early, hit the road, and caught a ride with the third car by. Not to shabby!
The last couple of days have been just wonderful! The sun has been out, it has been warm and the hiking has been good. Like I said in the previous post, walking in the snow is fun but it is starting to melt off quite a bit. In a few days we will be walking in the mud and slush. At night I have been setting my tent up right on the snow and I've been staying pretty warm. I think a lot warmer than if I were in the shelter. In the tent I am fully enclosed which helps retain heat.
One little story that made me laugh. On Thursday afternoon I came upon Peter and Brian. We talked about where we were going for the day. I said I was going to stop at the "cheesburger factory". They looked at me with the "huh" look. I laughed and said I meant the old ceese factory site but you know now what is on my mind. They were going to push on past there.
They left, I broke out the radio and was just be-bopin down the trail when I see someone coming toward me from the north. He gets close and says, "Are you the guy that's craving cheeseburgers"? I laughed and acknowledged the fact. He then proceeds to drop the bombshell. "Well, two guys just pulled in at Tray Gap and they are cooking up burgers for hikers." I just stared at him in disbelief, thanked him and took off.
Now Tray Gap was about a mile past where I was going to stay but I can stay anywhere and the burgers were calling! I reached Tray Gap and Brian started laughing, "I see you got the message", he said. I nodded and headed for the grill. What a treat! There were seven of us there drinking Mountain Dew and eating a couple of burgers. My earlier slip of the tounge turned into reality!
What happened with the burgers is known on the AT as Trail Magic. Trail Magic can come in many forms, from a full blown cook up like this, to a cooler alongside the trail somewhere loaded with drinks and goodies, to several gallons of water near a long waterless stretch. The people that do trail magic are past hikers and people that just appreciate the trail. Whomever it is they provide that little slice of heaven along the trail.
I a making good time. After I leave town today I will head up the trail about 4.5 miles To Plumorchard Gap Shelter and then early tomorrow morning I will cross into North Carolina. The weather looks to be good through Monday and then there is a chance of rain on Tuesday. Oh well, wet is wet and once you are wet you can't get any wetter.
The last couple of days have been just wonderful! The sun has been out, it has been warm and the hiking has been good. Like I said in the previous post, walking in the snow is fun but it is starting to melt off quite a bit. In a few days we will be walking in the mud and slush. At night I have been setting my tent up right on the snow and I've been staying pretty warm. I think a lot warmer than if I were in the shelter. In the tent I am fully enclosed which helps retain heat.
One little story that made me laugh. On Thursday afternoon I came upon Peter and Brian. We talked about where we were going for the day. I said I was going to stop at the "cheesburger factory". They looked at me with the "huh" look. I laughed and said I meant the old ceese factory site but you know now what is on my mind. They were going to push on past there.
They left, I broke out the radio and was just be-bopin down the trail when I see someone coming toward me from the north. He gets close and says, "Are you the guy that's craving cheeseburgers"? I laughed and acknowledged the fact. He then proceeds to drop the bombshell. "Well, two guys just pulled in at Tray Gap and they are cooking up burgers for hikers." I just stared at him in disbelief, thanked him and took off.
Now Tray Gap was about a mile past where I was going to stay but I can stay anywhere and the burgers were calling! I reached Tray Gap and Brian started laughing, "I see you got the message", he said. I nodded and headed for the grill. What a treat! There were seven of us there drinking Mountain Dew and eating a couple of burgers. My earlier slip of the tounge turned into reality!
What happened with the burgers is known on the AT as Trail Magic. Trail Magic can come in many forms, from a full blown cook up like this, to a cooler alongside the trail somewhere loaded with drinks and goodies, to several gallons of water near a long waterless stretch. The people that do trail magic are past hikers and people that just appreciate the trail. Whomever it is they provide that little slice of heaven along the trail.
I a making good time. After I leave town today I will head up the trail about 4.5 miles To Plumorchard Gap Shelter and then early tomorrow morning I will cross into North Carolina. The weather looks to be good through Monday and then there is a chance of rain on Tuesday. Oh well, wet is wet and once you are wet you can't get any wetter.
Neel's Gap to Low Gap Shelter
March 3 - Neel's Gap is the home of the Walasi-yi Hostel and Outfitter. The AT actually goes through an opening in the building, the only place on the trail that does that. Here is where many a hopeful thru-hiker gets off the trail, realizing that it is not for them. It is also a place where many hikers regear, realizing they are packing way too much weight. I have seen several hundred to a thousand spent on new gear here.
Since the snow was coming down pretty heavily and the wind was blowing steadily I decided to call it a day. I got a bunk in the hostel (first time I have stayed here) and went to dry some stuff. Jim made it down and managed to get the shuttle back to his car. It was fun hiking with him the last few. Thanks for everything Jim!
The AT is like an accordion. Lots of folks spread out over many miles but there are certain things that compress the accordion. Things like certain towns, hostels, and weather. Weather is the great compressor because no one wants to be caught in a big storm!
With that said 23 hikers ended up at Neel's Gap on the night of the 1st. Over the next few days it will be bunched up and the accordion will expand again. My plan was to get out early, 7:00 AM which meant I would most likely be breaking trail. This plan lasted until I woke up. It was 21 degrees and the wind was howling bringing the wind chill to single digits if not lower. I may crazy but i am not that crazy!
Time moved along and 7 people headed out before I made my move. At least I didn't have to break trail (or so I thought). I trekked up the hill and into the wind.
Walking in fresh fallen snow is actually a lot of fun. Everything is so pristine white and when you get past the ridgelines the wind dies and the silent beauty is too hard to describe. I have never hiked for many miles in snow like this and I do like it. As long as you are warm you are good to go although, in the back of your mind you realize you are going to be hiking in wet socks and shoes for days to come.
I don't know how it happened but I started passing those in front of me. Soon I was number 3 which meant I was breaking trail with Peter and Brian, the 2 guys we had met early on. Breaking trail is not a lot of fun especially when you're going through thigh high drifts. Thank goodness most of the trail was under 6 inches of snow. All in all though it was a great day! 16 of us ended up at Low Gap Shelter, 11 miles up the trail.
Since the snow was coming down pretty heavily and the wind was blowing steadily I decided to call it a day. I got a bunk in the hostel (first time I have stayed here) and went to dry some stuff. Jim made it down and managed to get the shuttle back to his car. It was fun hiking with him the last few. Thanks for everything Jim!
The AT is like an accordion. Lots of folks spread out over many miles but there are certain things that compress the accordion. Things like certain towns, hostels, and weather. Weather is the great compressor because no one wants to be caught in a big storm!
With that said 23 hikers ended up at Neel's Gap on the night of the 1st. Over the next few days it will be bunched up and the accordion will expand again. My plan was to get out early, 7:00 AM which meant I would most likely be breaking trail. This plan lasted until I woke up. It was 21 degrees and the wind was howling bringing the wind chill to single digits if not lower. I may crazy but i am not that crazy!
Time moved along and 7 people headed out before I made my move. At least I didn't have to break trail (or so I thought). I trekked up the hill and into the wind.
Walking in fresh fallen snow is actually a lot of fun. Everything is so pristine white and when you get past the ridgelines the wind dies and the silent beauty is too hard to describe. I have never hiked for many miles in snow like this and I do like it. As long as you are warm you are good to go although, in the back of your mind you realize you are going to be hiking in wet socks and shoes for days to come.
I don't know how it happened but I started passing those in front of me. Soon I was number 3 which meant I was breaking trail with Peter and Brian, the 2 guys we had met early on. Breaking trail is not a lot of fun especially when you're going through thigh high drifts. Thank goodness most of the trail was under 6 inches of snow. All in all though it was a great day! 16 of us ended up at Low Gap Shelter, 11 miles up the trail.
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Amicalola to Neel's Gap
We started hiking out of Amicalola around 2:00. My pack weighed in at 37 pounds. I am carrying a lot of clothes and I will be trying different combinations at night to see what keeps me warm. The rest I will send back with Jim when he leaves on Tuesday.
After about an hour it hit me. This isn't that bad. I wasn't looking for the giant oxygen in the sky and screaming for someone to bring a crash cart!. It really is amazing what 5 years and 5000 hiking miles will do to get you in shape and you don't realize it. All and all it was an easy childbirth. I didn't need the epidural at all!
Because of the late start we decided to stay at Black Gap Shelter, 1.5 miles from Springer. It was a good call because I have always hated rolling into camp and having to set up when it is dark. I like to enjoy some of the evening before darkness falls.
One real good thing is there is no snow on the ground. From all reports I expected a lot of snow. There are a ton of blowdowns on the approach trail however There were a lot of day hikers on the trail. I felt as if I were at Liberty Springs.
We made camp, ate, and drank a couple of one of Jim's recipies, The Cocoa Loco and then it was time for bed. Tomorrow we plan on about 15 miles to camp at Justus Creek.
I woke in the morning with a smile. My first thought was, "I am home". I probably had my best nights sleep in a long time last night. It was great!
The day's hike was good. The only problem was the weatherman. He lied. There was no sun, no 50 degrees, lots of wind and cool. You sure didn't stop long when you stopped for a break or lunch.. Since I usually leave camp first I set up place to meet for lunch and I motored on out. It wasn't too far past Springer that I ran into my first character out here. He was on the side of the trail, stuff from his pack strewn everywhere. He looks at me and asks if I want anything. He was doing a pack shakedown right then and there because he was too heavy. He had me laughing in no time. He reminded of the guy in Bryson's book. I almost completely lost it when he said his name was Overload. Funny guy and I did relieve him of some peanut butter!
At Hawk Mtn. Shelter we added 2 to our little group and the 4 of us ended up at Justus Creek. There was my first, "Wait, what just happened", moment. I looked around for the footbridge and then realized I had walked into a major newly opened relocation of the trail. It was pretty cool and I do look at trails differently since I have been working on them. This work looked like it was very well done. The only sad part is the trail now takes you away from the water.
Another day down and 15 miles from Springer. Good stuff!
March 1 -- Once again I was the first one out but we had made plans to meet up at Woody Gap. It was a beautiful day! The sun was out and there was no wind. I freely admit that I am a child of the sun. Sunny days just make me happy.
I moseyed along and hit Woody Gap about a half hour before the others rolled in. While waiting I ran into a "good 'ol boy" coming out of the woods. I was a little taken aback when I saw he had a bow slung on his pack! We got to talking and he said he had been in the woods since November. He was heading to town to get a new sleeping bag. Interesting fellow to say the least.
The four of us pushed on to Woods Hole Shelter, 3 miles from Neel's Gap. We wanted to be close because the weather is supposed to turn tonight. It was early to bed. I'm a little sore but into the trail (from the approach) about 36 miles. Feeling good.
March 2 - Woke up in my igloo this AM. It snowed and is snowing but I was toasty warm. I quickly packed, talked to a few of the hikers in the shelter, and realized I was going to be the one breaking trail today. I guess it is a good thing because going over and down Blood Mountain can get you lost on a good day. At least I had an idea of how the trail angled.
Being the first on the trail after fresh snow is a trip. Depth perception sucks and I kept jarring my legs and knees hitting holes where I thought it was flat. I reached the top of Blood Mtn. and started down. Honestly, I am glad I was first because I did spend 15 to 20 minutes searching for the trail. The snow covered everything and I knew the trail was not to far down the rock face. I finund it and then went back up to make a trail through the snow for those coming behind. Hopefully it doesn't gewed over before they hit there.
I made it down to Neel's Gap where I have decided to stay for the night. They have a hostel here and the weather is pretty crappy. For those of you that know them... Ramblin' Man and Baltimore Jack are here. Miss Janet is supposed to be here later today. She'll be running the hostel this season!
After about an hour it hit me. This isn't that bad. I wasn't looking for the giant oxygen in the sky and screaming for someone to bring a crash cart!. It really is amazing what 5 years and 5000 hiking miles will do to get you in shape and you don't realize it. All and all it was an easy childbirth. I didn't need the epidural at all!
Because of the late start we decided to stay at Black Gap Shelter, 1.5 miles from Springer. It was a good call because I have always hated rolling into camp and having to set up when it is dark. I like to enjoy some of the evening before darkness falls.
One real good thing is there is no snow on the ground. From all reports I expected a lot of snow. There are a ton of blowdowns on the approach trail however There were a lot of day hikers on the trail. I felt as if I were at Liberty Springs.
We made camp, ate, and drank a couple of one of Jim's recipies, The Cocoa Loco and then it was time for bed. Tomorrow we plan on about 15 miles to camp at Justus Creek.
I woke in the morning with a smile. My first thought was, "I am home". I probably had my best nights sleep in a long time last night. It was great!
The day's hike was good. The only problem was the weatherman. He lied. There was no sun, no 50 degrees, lots of wind and cool. You sure didn't stop long when you stopped for a break or lunch.. Since I usually leave camp first I set up place to meet for lunch and I motored on out. It wasn't too far past Springer that I ran into my first character out here. He was on the side of the trail, stuff from his pack strewn everywhere. He looks at me and asks if I want anything. He was doing a pack shakedown right then and there because he was too heavy. He had me laughing in no time. He reminded of the guy in Bryson's book. I almost completely lost it when he said his name was Overload. Funny guy and I did relieve him of some peanut butter!
At Hawk Mtn. Shelter we added 2 to our little group and the 4 of us ended up at Justus Creek. There was my first, "Wait, what just happened", moment. I looked around for the footbridge and then realized I had walked into a major newly opened relocation of the trail. It was pretty cool and I do look at trails differently since I have been working on them. This work looked like it was very well done. The only sad part is the trail now takes you away from the water.
Another day down and 15 miles from Springer. Good stuff!
March 1 -- Once again I was the first one out but we had made plans to meet up at Woody Gap. It was a beautiful day! The sun was out and there was no wind. I freely admit that I am a child of the sun. Sunny days just make me happy.
I moseyed along and hit Woody Gap about a half hour before the others rolled in. While waiting I ran into a "good 'ol boy" coming out of the woods. I was a little taken aback when I saw he had a bow slung on his pack! We got to talking and he said he had been in the woods since November. He was heading to town to get a new sleeping bag. Interesting fellow to say the least.
The four of us pushed on to Woods Hole Shelter, 3 miles from Neel's Gap. We wanted to be close because the weather is supposed to turn tonight. It was early to bed. I'm a little sore but into the trail (from the approach) about 36 miles. Feeling good.
March 2 - Woke up in my igloo this AM. It snowed and is snowing but I was toasty warm. I quickly packed, talked to a few of the hikers in the shelter, and realized I was going to be the one breaking trail today. I guess it is a good thing because going over and down Blood Mountain can get you lost on a good day. At least I had an idea of how the trail angled.
Being the first on the trail after fresh snow is a trip. Depth perception sucks and I kept jarring my legs and knees hitting holes where I thought it was flat. I reached the top of Blood Mtn. and started down. Honestly, I am glad I was first because I did spend 15 to 20 minutes searching for the trail. The snow covered everything and I knew the trail was not to far down the rock face. I finund it and then went back up to make a trail through the snow for those coming behind. Hopefully it doesn't gewed over before they hit there.
I made it down to Neel's Gap where I have decided to stay for the night. They have a hostel here and the weather is pretty crappy. For those of you that know them... Ramblin' Man and Baltimore Jack are here. Miss Janet is supposed to be here later today. She'll be running the hostel this season!
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