It has been awhile and a lot has gone on since the last post and it has been quite a ride since my last entry so here we go.
Matt and I ended up heading for New Hampshire three weeks before the caretaking season began. Our goal was to hike around and just check out a lot of places. This turned into a good thing, bad thing kinda deal. We wanted to be in the woods the whole time and we actually bought food for 21 days without resupply. What was funny about this was that Matt had never purchased food as a thru-hiker and he was totally amazed that you could feed yourself for three weeks on $70.00 dollars.
It didn't end up like what we wanted. There had been a late spring storm and the snow was deep on the higher elevations. Two days in , it was so deep we couldn't even figure where the trail was much less get to our destination so e turned back and decided to do a bunch of day hikes. We headed to the Dry River Wilderness area, much lower elevation and much warmer. We hiked around there for a couple of days, decided against a river crossing that probably would have killed us both and ended up at the OC,
One thing about the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club), our employers, they take care of you .... The OC is a cabin where employees can go for a very small fee. We went there for one night and then we went to Mizpah.
Ash, a dear friend of mine, was the spring caretaker there. Mizpah Hut is about 6 miles from Mt. Washington, the mountain that is synuomous with the Whites. We ended up hanging there for a few dats and did some hiking from there. Since I am writing this much later than we were there I wish we didn't go there. A lot of future pain evolved from those days .. not on my part .. it is a story that will not be told.
After Mizpah, Matt and I cruised around other areas of the Whites and then it was time for the season to begin. The season means caretaking at a site. I have chosen Liberty Springs as my site of choice ever since I started working for the AMC. I love that mountain! I love how close I am to Franconia Ridge! If any of you ever have a chance to get to New Hampshire make a point to hike up to Franconia Ridge .. trust me on this , you will love it (make sure it is a good day!)
I headed up to Liberty on Memorial Day weekend to begin my season in the Whites, I hiked 3.2 miles, all uphill with a damn heavy pack. I was bringing supplies in for the few holiday days and also for the summer. As someone told me later that summer, "The hike up this mountain is relentless!" I actually laughed at this but it is so true. Once you start the climb it doesn't end .. at least for the 2 miles to the campsite. Once you reach the cutoff to the Flume Slide Trail it is all uphill! There were a couple of times I just wanted to turn into a puddle of DNA when I reached my tent! I have hiked up and down this mountain many times in my three season here and there are days it kicked my butt, big time!
Enough for now .. In the next post I will bring everything up to date. Be well all.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Erwin, TN
Cyg and I were the last ones out of camp this morning but we didn't care. It was a beautiful morning and we only had six miles to lower elevations, town, food, and resupply. We were stoked and we hiked out. This mornings conversation dealt with pyschology and some of the experiments that have done on people in the past. Like I have said before, conversations can cover a myriad of topics. Three days ago we were discussing physics and the concept of a voule.
Our plan was to get to Erwin, go to the post office, grab lunch at the diner, go to the grocery store, and head straight back out of town to the next shelter, resupplied and with full stomaches. We hit the outskirts of town, passing by Uncle Johnny's Hostel, around 10:30 figuring we would swing by there on our way out. It took three cars before we managed to hitch a ride. I still and will always say it is SO much easier to hitch a ride when you have a girl with you!
He dropped us at the post office and from there we walked down the road to the restaraunt where we both ordered up a triple burger and extra fries along with coffee and a tea. We proceeded to try to fill that bottomless pit that was our stomache. After eating we just sat back, relaxing and marveling at how warm it was. I had actually changed into shorts and a T-shirt for the first time on this hike.
I was idly staring out the window when Cyg quietly said, "We could just stay in town tonight." I quickly looked at her and in a micro second said, OK, Fine with me;" We both started laughing and I accused her of being a bad influence to which she said something to the affect of having to try real hard to convince me!
So, I headed for the grocery store and she to the library. After taking care of business we met back up and started for Uncle Johnny's where we could get a bunk, laundry, and a shower for cheap. Later, we sat and chatted with Jacob and Gabe, brothers that were hiling but getting off for a bit to rest up an injured knee. I looked up and spotted Shlep coming off the trail. If we had pushed on we would have missed her.
The usual talk continued, food, where people were on the trail, food, injury, food ... Do you see a pattern developing here? It was great to just hang out. The hostel has a shuttle that runs into town three times a day so you could fill your belly at every meal.
To make a long story short we took a zero day the following and plans began to change. Jacob and Gabe were trying to get to NYC and Cyg was thinking of some time off and she didn't live to far from the city and I heard rumors of possibly having some work. At the all you can eat pizza buffet I ran my idea past Jacob and he thought it was a good one. The plan consited of me getting back to Atlanta, grabbing my car, coming back to pick up the three of them and then head to NY.
I called Jim and told him the plan. He said that if I could wait till Saturday he would come get me. That was fine with me and the rest of the group so we just hung out at the hostel. The weather had turned nasty again so hanging around outside was not an option. What do you do when you have a day and a half to kill. You play cards, talk,sleep, and learn to dance.
At one point on the trail Cyg and I were going over our "bucket lists" and I told her that I had always wanted to learn how to swimg dance. Little did I know that Cyg was a swing dancer so that Friday afternoon she proceeded to teach me the basics. The step is pretty basic (a six count step and the Lindy is an eight count) but it took me awhile to get the hang of it. After learning the step Cyg showed me the basic moves to get your partner to do a certain twist and the different ways to get her to come back. It was pretty amazing how just a change of hand position or pressure on the back communicates how the step out or return will go. It was a lot of fun and we spent at least an hour at it. Cyg was a patient teacher especially with two left feet like mine!
Saturday afternoon arrived and so did Jim. He threw out the, why don't you all come to Atlanta and you can leave from my house in the morning, line so we all piled into his car and went to Atlanta. Upon arrival at his place he treated us to pizza and some deadly cocktails. It was a very late night to say the least and we elevated Jim from "trail angel" to "trail archangel". Thanks for everything Jim!
The next day we started the long journey north and it rained the whole way. We made it as far as Philadelphia that first day and the next morning I dropped the boys off in Hoeboken, NJ so they could catch the ferry into the city. From there Cyg and I continued on.
By the time we reached her place I had had about as much driving as I wanted to do but there were still a couple of hours left for me until I hit Rob's place in MA. Cyg said I should just stay at her place and head out the next day. It didnt take a whole lot of convincing! From there the journey was soon over which brings me to now.
I am currently on Cape Cod working with a fellow caretaker from the Whites. We've been painting houses and we have one more to do. Starting on the 28th of April phase 2 of the adventure will start. We are going to go back to Rob's place and hike north on the AT from Dalton, MA and hopefully make it to Gorham, NH before we have to report for work. This will be about a 300 mile trek and we Are jazzed about getting started.
So, that's it for the first part of my 2010 AT trek. Phase two will be chronicled so stay tuned.
Our plan was to get to Erwin, go to the post office, grab lunch at the diner, go to the grocery store, and head straight back out of town to the next shelter, resupplied and with full stomaches. We hit the outskirts of town, passing by Uncle Johnny's Hostel, around 10:30 figuring we would swing by there on our way out. It took three cars before we managed to hitch a ride. I still and will always say it is SO much easier to hitch a ride when you have a girl with you!
He dropped us at the post office and from there we walked down the road to the restaraunt where we both ordered up a triple burger and extra fries along with coffee and a tea. We proceeded to try to fill that bottomless pit that was our stomache. After eating we just sat back, relaxing and marveling at how warm it was. I had actually changed into shorts and a T-shirt for the first time on this hike.
I was idly staring out the window when Cyg quietly said, "We could just stay in town tonight." I quickly looked at her and in a micro second said, OK, Fine with me;" We both started laughing and I accused her of being a bad influence to which she said something to the affect of having to try real hard to convince me!
So, I headed for the grocery store and she to the library. After taking care of business we met back up and started for Uncle Johnny's where we could get a bunk, laundry, and a shower for cheap. Later, we sat and chatted with Jacob and Gabe, brothers that were hiling but getting off for a bit to rest up an injured knee. I looked up and spotted Shlep coming off the trail. If we had pushed on we would have missed her.
The usual talk continued, food, where people were on the trail, food, injury, food ... Do you see a pattern developing here? It was great to just hang out. The hostel has a shuttle that runs into town three times a day so you could fill your belly at every meal.
To make a long story short we took a zero day the following and plans began to change. Jacob and Gabe were trying to get to NYC and Cyg was thinking of some time off and she didn't live to far from the city and I heard rumors of possibly having some work. At the all you can eat pizza buffet I ran my idea past Jacob and he thought it was a good one. The plan consited of me getting back to Atlanta, grabbing my car, coming back to pick up the three of them and then head to NY.
I called Jim and told him the plan. He said that if I could wait till Saturday he would come get me. That was fine with me and the rest of the group so we just hung out at the hostel. The weather had turned nasty again so hanging around outside was not an option. What do you do when you have a day and a half to kill. You play cards, talk,sleep, and learn to dance.
At one point on the trail Cyg and I were going over our "bucket lists" and I told her that I had always wanted to learn how to swimg dance. Little did I know that Cyg was a swing dancer so that Friday afternoon she proceeded to teach me the basics. The step is pretty basic (a six count step and the Lindy is an eight count) but it took me awhile to get the hang of it. After learning the step Cyg showed me the basic moves to get your partner to do a certain twist and the different ways to get her to come back. It was pretty amazing how just a change of hand position or pressure on the back communicates how the step out or return will go. It was a lot of fun and we spent at least an hour at it. Cyg was a patient teacher especially with two left feet like mine!
Saturday afternoon arrived and so did Jim. He threw out the, why don't you all come to Atlanta and you can leave from my house in the morning, line so we all piled into his car and went to Atlanta. Upon arrival at his place he treated us to pizza and some deadly cocktails. It was a very late night to say the least and we elevated Jim from "trail angel" to "trail archangel". Thanks for everything Jim!
The next day we started the long journey north and it rained the whole way. We made it as far as Philadelphia that first day and the next morning I dropped the boys off in Hoeboken, NJ so they could catch the ferry into the city. From there Cyg and I continued on.
By the time we reached her place I had had about as much driving as I wanted to do but there were still a couple of hours left for me until I hit Rob's place in MA. Cyg said I should just stay at her place and head out the next day. It didnt take a whole lot of convincing! From there the journey was soon over which brings me to now.
I am currently on Cape Cod working with a fellow caretaker from the Whites. We've been painting houses and we have one more to do. Starting on the 28th of April phase 2 of the adventure will start. We are going to go back to Rob's place and hike north on the AT from Dalton, MA and hopefully make it to Gorham, NH before we have to report for work. This will be about a 300 mile trek and we Are jazzed about getting started.
So, that's it for the first part of my 2010 AT trek. Phase two will be chronicled so stay tuned.
Monday, April 19, 2010
Hogback Ridge to No Business Knob Shelter
I was the first one up this morning. With our plan to do 20 miles we had to get an early start. Not that getting up was an issue! I had been awake for most of the night as it was. I had a rip saw snorer next to me and once I start "hearing" it I can no longer sleep. Not to mention I find myself falling into the breathing pattern of the snorer. This leads to prolonged periods of no breathing and then intermittent blasts of quick breath to long inhalations. Having 9 people stuffed in here meant I was right next to said offender! It finally reached a point where I flipped my bag around so I was at the feet instead of the head but by this time it was very early in the AM and soon time to wake.
I boiled water and woke Branch and Appleseed, who were with us that night. I figured I would get the water boiled before I woke Cyg. That way I could offer her water for her oatmeal and not have to deal with the early AM Cyg (OK, it's not that bad but I can take artistic license here).
Cyg and I did get out early ... We even beat Tattoo Joe out but that idea of supremacy was short lived as he caught up to us an hour or two later. The three of us hiked through the snow (yes, we are still in snow!) sometimes losing the trail but all in all having fun. After a bit Tattoo Joe decided it was time to leave the snails and move on. This was shortly before we arrived at Big Bald Mtn. where things became interesting.
All morning we had been hiking in and out of the snow. The skies were overcast but the trend seemed to be leaning toward clearing. Shortly before the summit of Big Bald the sun broke through the cloud cover. Cyg immediately started singing, "Here Comes the Sun". Sun is always welcome!
Well, we paid for that brief, sunny interlude, in spades! Within a short distance we were at the summit and the wind was ripping across the bald. It started pushing us toward one side and another as we tried to get across the top. Conversation was nill because of the wind noise. Tuck your head down and just GO! Oh, did I mention there was snow on top and it was a very, very cold wind. Add that into the mix of, Are we having fun yet?
We finally reached a spot where the wind died and there was a sign drawn in the snow showing the trail to be down the hill a bit. Problem was there were no footprints. We backtracked a bit and made our way down but the wind was not finished knocking us around yet.
At one point Cyg stopped to get out her gloves. Now, I've always had mental issues with Cyg and her gloves. My fingers can be ice cold and I have gloves on but she just hikes without them. In the wind I kept thinking her fingers were going to just drop off her hand like icicles off a roof. Her only comment was, "I need to get my gloves." I just nodded (because my jaws were frozen shut)wondering how this was going to be possible because I couldn't feel my own fingers much less move them.
She fished them out and we trudged through two more wind tunnels before dropping back below treeline where we proceeded to become misplaced yet again, for a short time. Finding trail in a lot of snow is not easy!
We hiked on, buoyed bY the adrenaline rush that Big Bald gave us and we soon made it to Big Bald Shelter, at 5100 feet and still with snow. It was around 11:30 AM and we had a decision to make, but not before it was hot lunch time. Rarely do one of us take time to actually cook lunch on the trail. Lunch usually consists of something you can throw together quickly. Cyg and I felt this day deserved a hot lunch.
We boiled our water for our perspective meals and considered our options. 10.6 miles to go along with a 2000 foot elevation drop or stay here and "mope" later on as Cyg put it. The key was Cyg's knee. It had been bothering her and we didn't want to push things if we didn't have to.
Neither of us said much as we ate but I think we had pretty much decided on the course of action. I finished eating, looked at Cyg and said,"Well?". She just looked out from the shelter and lifted her head toward the trail. We were hiking soon after that.
Little Bald came and went, still with snow but not like its brother Big Bald. We made it to High Rocks where the snow was disappearing and the sun was making a strong attempt to stay out. We to the trail to High Rocks and enjoyed the views from there for a bit and then moved on.
Spivey Gap came and went. The sun was out and the snow was gone. Amazing what dropping 2000 feet will do! Devil's Creek Gap approached and we were 2.5 miles from the goal for the day and it was around 5:30. I figured we would be in right around 7:00.
When you've been hiking with someone for close to three weeks you get to pick up on some of the subtle tonal inflections a person makes. I was tired and Cyg's feet and knee were feeling none to happy. At one point I made the mistake of saying something about how I thought we were pretty close (we weren't) and after about a half hour Cyg made a comment on how much further. I immediately flashed back to '05 when Feelin' Free and I were hiking out of Atkins, VA and how my "uh oh" radar went on then.
Cyg's testy tone, subtle though it was, meant I could be in big trouble if I didn"t tread this water very gently! Much to my relief we saw someone coming down the trail who pointed out the shelter was just around the bend. Whew, made it out of that one in one piece and without having to back pedal!
So, we did it. 20 miles and change. My first for the season and Cyg's first ever. It was not an easy 20 either with all the snow and wind. It was a well earned 20! Tomorrow would be a nice little 6 mile jaunt into Erwin. The weather looked promising. It would be a good day.
I boiled water and woke Branch and Appleseed, who were with us that night. I figured I would get the water boiled before I woke Cyg. That way I could offer her water for her oatmeal and not have to deal with the early AM Cyg (OK, it's not that bad but I can take artistic license here).
Cyg and I did get out early ... We even beat Tattoo Joe out but that idea of supremacy was short lived as he caught up to us an hour or two later. The three of us hiked through the snow (yes, we are still in snow!) sometimes losing the trail but all in all having fun. After a bit Tattoo Joe decided it was time to leave the snails and move on. This was shortly before we arrived at Big Bald Mtn. where things became interesting.
All morning we had been hiking in and out of the snow. The skies were overcast but the trend seemed to be leaning toward clearing. Shortly before the summit of Big Bald the sun broke through the cloud cover. Cyg immediately started singing, "Here Comes the Sun". Sun is always welcome!
Well, we paid for that brief, sunny interlude, in spades! Within a short distance we were at the summit and the wind was ripping across the bald. It started pushing us toward one side and another as we tried to get across the top. Conversation was nill because of the wind noise. Tuck your head down and just GO! Oh, did I mention there was snow on top and it was a very, very cold wind. Add that into the mix of, Are we having fun yet?
We finally reached a spot where the wind died and there was a sign drawn in the snow showing the trail to be down the hill a bit. Problem was there were no footprints. We backtracked a bit and made our way down but the wind was not finished knocking us around yet.
At one point Cyg stopped to get out her gloves. Now, I've always had mental issues with Cyg and her gloves. My fingers can be ice cold and I have gloves on but she just hikes without them. In the wind I kept thinking her fingers were going to just drop off her hand like icicles off a roof. Her only comment was, "I need to get my gloves." I just nodded (because my jaws were frozen shut)wondering how this was going to be possible because I couldn't feel my own fingers much less move them.
She fished them out and we trudged through two more wind tunnels before dropping back below treeline where we proceeded to become misplaced yet again, for a short time. Finding trail in a lot of snow is not easy!
We hiked on, buoyed bY the adrenaline rush that Big Bald gave us and we soon made it to Big Bald Shelter, at 5100 feet and still with snow. It was around 11:30 AM and we had a decision to make, but not before it was hot lunch time. Rarely do one of us take time to actually cook lunch on the trail. Lunch usually consists of something you can throw together quickly. Cyg and I felt this day deserved a hot lunch.
We boiled our water for our perspective meals and considered our options. 10.6 miles to go along with a 2000 foot elevation drop or stay here and "mope" later on as Cyg put it. The key was Cyg's knee. It had been bothering her and we didn't want to push things if we didn't have to.
Neither of us said much as we ate but I think we had pretty much decided on the course of action. I finished eating, looked at Cyg and said,"Well?". She just looked out from the shelter and lifted her head toward the trail. We were hiking soon after that.
Little Bald came and went, still with snow but not like its brother Big Bald. We made it to High Rocks where the snow was disappearing and the sun was making a strong attempt to stay out. We to the trail to High Rocks and enjoyed the views from there for a bit and then moved on.
Spivey Gap came and went. The sun was out and the snow was gone. Amazing what dropping 2000 feet will do! Devil's Creek Gap approached and we were 2.5 miles from the goal for the day and it was around 5:30. I figured we would be in right around 7:00.
When you've been hiking with someone for close to three weeks you get to pick up on some of the subtle tonal inflections a person makes. I was tired and Cyg's feet and knee were feeling none to happy. At one point I made the mistake of saying something about how I thought we were pretty close (we weren't) and after about a half hour Cyg made a comment on how much further. I immediately flashed back to '05 when Feelin' Free and I were hiking out of Atkins, VA and how my "uh oh" radar went on then.
Cyg's testy tone, subtle though it was, meant I could be in big trouble if I didn"t tread this water very gently! Much to my relief we saw someone coming down the trail who pointed out the shelter was just around the bend. Whew, made it out of that one in one piece and without having to back pedal!
So, we did it. 20 miles and change. My first for the season and Cyg's first ever. It was not an easy 20 either with all the snow and wind. It was a well earned 20! Tomorrow would be a nice little 6 mile jaunt into Erwin. The weather looked promising. It would be a good day.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Hot Springs to Hogback Ridge Shelter
I left Hot Springs on a bright, beautiful, and believe it or not HOT sunny day. I didn't get out till 11:30 but I was only going 5 miles to the meadow above Hot Springs. I had camped there before and it is a great spot.
I reached the meadow area around 2:00, threw down my pad , and broke out my book. I spent the afternoon reading the first Harry Potter book again .. Story behind this which I will relate in another post (I have read them all already). The sun was hot and I was loving life!
The next morning I moved on and it was still a good weather day...amazing! Two in a row... Hard to wrap my mind around. I made it to Little Laurel Shelter around 4:00, pitched my tent and settled down. There is supposed to be some rain tomorrow so I was going to play it by ear on my mileage for the day.
The day dawned and it was a mixed bag. No rain yet but you could tell it was going to. I headedout and realized I was going to the NC ridgeline walk today. A few years back they re-routed the trail so it would take you up the mountain and you would walk on an exposed ridgeline for awhile. Very pretty walk unless you were on it today.
It was cloudy and very windy up there and all I wanted to do was get off the ridge which I did though in my haste I came very close to a major face plant ... Rock meet face, face meet rock .. I did avoid it but my hands took the brunt of the impact. After landing I rolled over onto my back and played the turtle game while trying to get back on my feet.
Around noon I reached Jerry Cabin Shelter and it had begun to sprinkle a bit. Jerry Cabin has a fireplce in it and I decided I didn't really want to hike in the rain so I gathered enough wood to last the day. The fire was started around 3:00 and around 4:00 Branch and Appleseed came by. They were going to go on but the fire was too irresistable so they came in for the night.
Around 5:00 Cyg rolled in. She had said she was going to catch up and by me doing a short day just made it that much quicker. She had done a 16 mile day to get here. A couple of hours later Shlep came in and I had to tease her about how heavy her pack was. She was carrying a LOT of food.
It rained during the night but by morning it had just become overcast. Overcast but cold. Everyone had headed out except for Cyg, Shlep, and I. Over the last little while I have realized that Cyg is not an early morning person so I just wait before she is packed before discussing the day. Today was going to be either an 8 or a 15 mile day depending on how we felt.
Cyg and I took off. Shlep was taking her time and she looked like she was determined to put a dent in her food bag before she even thought about leaving. We figured we may not she her anymore this day. Off we went, into the cold and into the snow as we climbed Big Butt Mtn. Because of all the snow the trail was a bit difficult to find in places but we made our way to Flint Mtn. Shelter where we stopped for lunch.
From there it was just another afternoon of hiking. Cyg usually leads and her hiking pace fits my style so we just chat away while we hike or just let our own thoughts take us wherever they want. We ended the day at Hogback Ridge Shelter and once again we were in the snow and it was cold. We did cram 9 people into a 6 person shelter so body heat kept things cozy.
One of the people we ran into today was Tatoo Joe. He is using the AT as a "warm up" for his Pacific Crest Trail hike. He and Scott Williamson have the record for fastest thru hike of the PCT and they are planning to try and beat it again this year. Very funny guy and I realized that I would never,ever be an ultra light backpacker. I enjoy the creature comforts I carry!
Tomorrow will be a first for both Cyg and I this year. We are looking at a 20.7 mile day. Again, it will all depend on knees and conditions. If we make it we set ourselves up for a short jaunt into Erwin the following day.
I reached the meadow area around 2:00, threw down my pad , and broke out my book. I spent the afternoon reading the first Harry Potter book again .. Story behind this which I will relate in another post (I have read them all already). The sun was hot and I was loving life!
The next morning I moved on and it was still a good weather day...amazing! Two in a row... Hard to wrap my mind around. I made it to Little Laurel Shelter around 4:00, pitched my tent and settled down. There is supposed to be some rain tomorrow so I was going to play it by ear on my mileage for the day.
The day dawned and it was a mixed bag. No rain yet but you could tell it was going to. I headedout and realized I was going to the NC ridgeline walk today. A few years back they re-routed the trail so it would take you up the mountain and you would walk on an exposed ridgeline for awhile. Very pretty walk unless you were on it today.
It was cloudy and very windy up there and all I wanted to do was get off the ridge which I did though in my haste I came very close to a major face plant ... Rock meet face, face meet rock .. I did avoid it but my hands took the brunt of the impact. After landing I rolled over onto my back and played the turtle game while trying to get back on my feet.
Around noon I reached Jerry Cabin Shelter and it had begun to sprinkle a bit. Jerry Cabin has a fireplce in it and I decided I didn't really want to hike in the rain so I gathered enough wood to last the day. The fire was started around 3:00 and around 4:00 Branch and Appleseed came by. They were going to go on but the fire was too irresistable so they came in for the night.
Around 5:00 Cyg rolled in. She had said she was going to catch up and by me doing a short day just made it that much quicker. She had done a 16 mile day to get here. A couple of hours later Shlep came in and I had to tease her about how heavy her pack was. She was carrying a LOT of food.
It rained during the night but by morning it had just become overcast. Overcast but cold. Everyone had headed out except for Cyg, Shlep, and I. Over the last little while I have realized that Cyg is not an early morning person so I just wait before she is packed before discussing the day. Today was going to be either an 8 or a 15 mile day depending on how we felt.
Cyg and I took off. Shlep was taking her time and she looked like she was determined to put a dent in her food bag before she even thought about leaving. We figured we may not she her anymore this day. Off we went, into the cold and into the snow as we climbed Big Butt Mtn. Because of all the snow the trail was a bit difficult to find in places but we made our way to Flint Mtn. Shelter where we stopped for lunch.
From there it was just another afternoon of hiking. Cyg usually leads and her hiking pace fits my style so we just chat away while we hike or just let our own thoughts take us wherever they want. We ended the day at Hogback Ridge Shelter and once again we were in the snow and it was cold. We did cram 9 people into a 6 person shelter so body heat kept things cozy.
One of the people we ran into today was Tatoo Joe. He is using the AT as a "warm up" for his Pacific Crest Trail hike. He and Scott Williamson have the record for fastest thru hike of the PCT and they are planning to try and beat it again this year. Very funny guy and I realized that I would never,ever be an ultra light backpacker. I enjoy the creature comforts I carry!
Tomorrow will be a first for both Cyg and I this year. We are looking at a 20.7 mile day. Again, it will all depend on knees and conditions. If we make it we set ourselves up for a short jaunt into Erwin the following day.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Standing Bear to Hot Springs
The four of us left Standing Bear around 9:00 under a slight rain however it stopped shortly after we left. We took off the rain gear and before we knew it Shlep was gone. She was into some fast hiking.
Cygnet, Subby, and I cruised along but after awhile Cygnet (Cygi) and I lost Subby on an uphill. She and I hiked on for most of the day. It was overcast and foggy for most of it and shortly before Max Patch we ran into two hikers coming south. The usual pleasantries were exchanged and then we found out they were heading to Hot Springs.
Cygi looked at me and at them and said, "So are we and I believe you are heading in the wrong direction". They had misplaced themselves on Max Patch and when we reached it I could see why. The fog was very thick and it was difficult to navigate. We drew arrows in the snow so Subby would find his way easier. We made it tobthe shelter and once again I set my tent up in the snow.
The following day ended up with Cygi and I hiking together again and once more it was under cloudy skies and mostly snowy ground. We did run into Carol and Donny who were doing a southbound stretch back to Standing Bear. Since they couldn't do the Smokies they figured they would get some hiking in.
We arrived at the shelter 3 miles outside of Hot Springs and set up camp. They goal was an early start the next morning so we would a full day in town. When you are hiking you want to maximize town time without having to pay for two nights in town so you lay up short the night before, roll in early the next day and if you plan on staying you only pay for a night.
Of course I was out first thing and I arrived in Hot Springs around 8:00. I grabbed a cup of coffee and sat in a rocking chair on the porch of the restaurant and waited for the others.
Cygi and Subby made it down around 9:00 with Shlep not to far back. We all piled into the restaurant for breakfast. After the server brought the food she looked at the table and told us she should have put us at a table for six. The table was filled with plates of food!
After eating we went to Elmer's and checked in. Elmer runs a B&B type place out of an old Victorian style building. The place itself is pretty cool and during hiking season he pretty much caters to the hikers. We got situated and then the town chores began.
You would think being in town would be for relaxing but there is a lot you have to take care of so you are running all around. Laundry, post office, figuring out how much food you need to pack out of town and then hitting the grocery store to get it. It eventually gets done and then you can relax.
The nice part about this stop was that the sun was out and it was warm. Actually warm. It was the first time in six days that I have seen the sun! It was a great day!
That evening the four of us went through a half gallon of ice cream while watching Blazing Saddles. After that it was bedtime. Subby and I were heading out in the morning. Shlep was taking another day in town and Cygi hadn't decided yet.
All it takes sometimes is a good day to make up for a lot of bad days out here though I wouldn't trade a minute of being on the trail no matter how bad.
Cygnet, Subby, and I cruised along but after awhile Cygnet (Cygi) and I lost Subby on an uphill. She and I hiked on for most of the day. It was overcast and foggy for most of it and shortly before Max Patch we ran into two hikers coming south. The usual pleasantries were exchanged and then we found out they were heading to Hot Springs.
Cygi looked at me and at them and said, "So are we and I believe you are heading in the wrong direction". They had misplaced themselves on Max Patch and when we reached it I could see why. The fog was very thick and it was difficult to navigate. We drew arrows in the snow so Subby would find his way easier. We made it tobthe shelter and once again I set my tent up in the snow.
The following day ended up with Cygi and I hiking together again and once more it was under cloudy skies and mostly snowy ground. We did run into Carol and Donny who were doing a southbound stretch back to Standing Bear. Since they couldn't do the Smokies they figured they would get some hiking in.
We arrived at the shelter 3 miles outside of Hot Springs and set up camp. They goal was an early start the next morning so we would a full day in town. When you are hiking you want to maximize town time without having to pay for two nights in town so you lay up short the night before, roll in early the next day and if you plan on staying you only pay for a night.
Of course I was out first thing and I arrived in Hot Springs around 8:00. I grabbed a cup of coffee and sat in a rocking chair on the porch of the restaurant and waited for the others.
Cygi and Subby made it down around 9:00 with Shlep not to far back. We all piled into the restaurant for breakfast. After the server brought the food she looked at the table and told us she should have put us at a table for six. The table was filled with plates of food!
After eating we went to Elmer's and checked in. Elmer runs a B&B type place out of an old Victorian style building. The place itself is pretty cool and during hiking season he pretty much caters to the hikers. We got situated and then the town chores began.
You would think being in town would be for relaxing but there is a lot you have to take care of so you are running all around. Laundry, post office, figuring out how much food you need to pack out of town and then hitting the grocery store to get it. It eventually gets done and then you can relax.
The nice part about this stop was that the sun was out and it was warm. Actually warm. It was the first time in six days that I have seen the sun! It was a great day!
That evening the four of us went through a half gallon of ice cream while watching Blazing Saddles. After that it was bedtime. Subby and I were heading out in the morning. Shlep was taking another day in town and Cygi hadn't decided yet.
All it takes sometimes is a good day to make up for a lot of bad days out here though I wouldn't trade a minute of being on the trail no matter how bad.
Sunday, March 21, 2010
The Smokies
I started up the hill to Icewater Spring Shelter. Weather was moving in and a few light flakes were starting to come down. With only 3 miles to go I figured I might beat the snow. I did beat it, but barely. 5 minutes from the shelter it started coming down hard.
In the shelter were two guys who were in for the night and two who were out hiking and planning to go down one of the side trails. This is when I started hearing about what lay ahead. Supposedly three hikers who had started from Davenport Gap (where I was heading) had passed through and said it was really bad past Pecks Corner, 7 miles up. They had said it was the worst 3 days of their lives!
Hmmm .... I settled in and the two took off. The snow was coming down pretty good by now and I was happy to be dry and warm. Others rolled in for the night and then, around 5:30 the two that had headed out came back. They had made it about 1/2 mile past Charlie's Bunion which was only about a mile up the trail. "It's bad, waist high drifts and just hard going", they said.
By now the snow had lightened and I was beginning to question my idea to jump to Newfound Gap. Oh well .. Just have to see what's up in the morning.
Day 2 -- There were 4 to 6 inches of new snow in the morning. All previous footprints were buried by the new snow. I quickly made the decision to take "zero" in the shelter (a zero is when you do no miles for the day). I didn't want to brek trail and there were 3 others that were going on.
Everyone left and I settled in. I was warm and I spent the morning reading my book and watching as a light snow began to fall again. Early afternoon brought the arrival of Carol and Donny, two section hikers that were coming up from Newfound Gap. The road there had been closed to late morning. They had planned to go on but that put a cramp in there style. The three of us were planning on heading out the next morning.
It started to snow again and as I stared at it I heard voices. The three who had left earlier this morning show back up. "Not good", I'm thinking. They threw out the good news, bad news line. It good between here and Charlie's Bunion but after that it goes downhill fast. I am liking this less and less.
Around 5:00 two guys roll in from the north looking like death warmed over. They had started at Davenport Gap and they truly were at the end of their rope. Everything they owned was soaked and all they wanted was to be off the mountain as fast as they could. Again, "It's bad out there".
Day 3 -- Monday morning. Overall about a foot of new snow has fallen. Carol, Donny, and I were going to forge ahead. Four other thru-hikers had pulled in last night and they were going to follow shortly.
The tree branches sagged under the weight of the new snow and as the pathbreaker I was trying knock as much snow off them as I could before passing under. It didn't do much good and before long I looked like a snowman. The snow was deep and the trail somewhat hard to discern because of the new snow. The wind was pickimg up as we hit the ridgeline and if you took one wrong step you would sink to your thigh.
All I was thinking was "This is the good part"?. I really, really do not want to see the bad. About 3/4 mile in and a lot of work I came to a stop and looked back at Carol and Donny. "I'm not doing this. We still have 7 miles to go and we haven't even hit the bad stuff yet". No rationalization needed just plain common sense told me back out. So I did.
The plan now became, get to Newfound Gap and figure out a way to get to Standing Bear Farm just past Davenport Gap. Carol and Donny had followed my lead and the three of hooked a ride from Newfound Gap to Gatlinburg where we were able to get in touch with Curtis. Curtis runs Standing Bear and his wife Maria came to get us..
What a change! There is no snow. It actually feels warm and I have zero regrets about skipping the Smokies. I found that I was not the only one with that thought. At Standing Bear I met Shlep, Subbie, and Cygnet, three thru-hikers that jumped up because of the weather. The plan, as is with most hiker who jump up, is to pick up the section they miss at the end.
The four of us chatted, ate, and got into a wicked game of Jenga. Carol and Donny had gone into town and they brought us back some fresh fruit. Thank you so much for the treat!
So now the plan is to roll out in the morning with Cygnet, Shlep, and Subbie and make my way to Hot Springs, NC.
In the shelter were two guys who were in for the night and two who were out hiking and planning to go down one of the side trails. This is when I started hearing about what lay ahead. Supposedly three hikers who had started from Davenport Gap (where I was heading) had passed through and said it was really bad past Pecks Corner, 7 miles up. They had said it was the worst 3 days of their lives!
Hmmm .... I settled in and the two took off. The snow was coming down pretty good by now and I was happy to be dry and warm. Others rolled in for the night and then, around 5:30 the two that had headed out came back. They had made it about 1/2 mile past Charlie's Bunion which was only about a mile up the trail. "It's bad, waist high drifts and just hard going", they said.
By now the snow had lightened and I was beginning to question my idea to jump to Newfound Gap. Oh well .. Just have to see what's up in the morning.
Day 2 -- There were 4 to 6 inches of new snow in the morning. All previous footprints were buried by the new snow. I quickly made the decision to take "zero" in the shelter (a zero is when you do no miles for the day). I didn't want to brek trail and there were 3 others that were going on.
Everyone left and I settled in. I was warm and I spent the morning reading my book and watching as a light snow began to fall again. Early afternoon brought the arrival of Carol and Donny, two section hikers that were coming up from Newfound Gap. The road there had been closed to late morning. They had planned to go on but that put a cramp in there style. The three of us were planning on heading out the next morning.
It started to snow again and as I stared at it I heard voices. The three who had left earlier this morning show back up. "Not good", I'm thinking. They threw out the good news, bad news line. It good between here and Charlie's Bunion but after that it goes downhill fast. I am liking this less and less.
Around 5:00 two guys roll in from the north looking like death warmed over. They had started at Davenport Gap and they truly were at the end of their rope. Everything they owned was soaked and all they wanted was to be off the mountain as fast as they could. Again, "It's bad out there".
Day 3 -- Monday morning. Overall about a foot of new snow has fallen. Carol, Donny, and I were going to forge ahead. Four other thru-hikers had pulled in last night and they were going to follow shortly.
The tree branches sagged under the weight of the new snow and as the pathbreaker I was trying knock as much snow off them as I could before passing under. It didn't do much good and before long I looked like a snowman. The snow was deep and the trail somewhat hard to discern because of the new snow. The wind was pickimg up as we hit the ridgeline and if you took one wrong step you would sink to your thigh.
All I was thinking was "This is the good part"?. I really, really do not want to see the bad. About 3/4 mile in and a lot of work I came to a stop and looked back at Carol and Donny. "I'm not doing this. We still have 7 miles to go and we haven't even hit the bad stuff yet". No rationalization needed just plain common sense told me back out. So I did.
The plan now became, get to Newfound Gap and figure out a way to get to Standing Bear Farm just past Davenport Gap. Carol and Donny had followed my lead and the three of hooked a ride from Newfound Gap to Gatlinburg where we were able to get in touch with Curtis. Curtis runs Standing Bear and his wife Maria came to get us..
What a change! There is no snow. It actually feels warm and I have zero regrets about skipping the Smokies. I found that I was not the only one with that thought. At Standing Bear I met Shlep, Subbie, and Cygnet, three thru-hikers that jumped up because of the weather. The plan, as is with most hiker who jump up, is to pick up the section they miss at the end.
The four of us chatted, ate, and got into a wicked game of Jenga. Carol and Donny had gone into town and they brought us back some fresh fruit. Thank you so much for the treat!
So now the plan is to roll out in the morning with Cygnet, Shlep, and Subbie and make my way to Hot Springs, NC.
Friday, March 19, 2010
NOC to Newfound Gap
March 12 - 15 --- "You know you've been hiking too long when you look at the Nantahala River and think, what a great water source, to bad it is so close to town".
I had to smile when I saw this. At the NOC I found the hiker register for 2005 and this was the comment Break-a-Leg put in it on March 31. We had hiked together from the start and would for another 300 miles. My comment was, "In for lunch, laundry,and then out." That made me smile also because later that afternoon we ended up checking in for the night.
Last night turned into a little party. About 14 of us were here. Mostly the people I've been seeing since the start. Like I've mentioned we are the forefront of the herd to come and it has already developed into a cool little group. Good people to be around. Unfortunately this may be the last I see of them because of my plan.
Moonpie made it to the NOC and we made our way to Sheltowee and Waterfall's place in Franklin. They were putting us up for the night. The main reason Moonpie had come down was to give a talk to the Nantahala Hiking Club that evening.The NHC takes care of 90 miles of the AT in the area. They are quite active and it was great to meet some of the members.
The one funny thing about meeting the member's was when one lady walked up to me and said, "Were you hiking in Vermont last October"? I looked at her while thinking how do you know that. "With that girl and her dog", she said. Again I was startled. "GG", I replied. "Yes! GG. we saw you two on Killington". Talk about a small world!
After the meeting Sheltowee, Waterfall, Moonpie, and I stayed up way past hiker midnight just chatting. The next day we all went to breakfast and then Moonpie and I headed to Newfound Gap. As we drove up the mountain to the gap the snow began to appear again and my apprehension began to build. She dropped me off, I shouldered my pack and began the 3 mile climb to the shelter. I am going to leave it at that because what transpires over the next 48 hours deserves an entry by itself.
I want to give thanks to Sheltowee and Waterfall for sharing their house and for their wonderful generosity. For any of those interested I first met Sheltowee on the PCT in '08. Of course I cannot leave out Moonpie! It was good to see her again. Thanks for everything Moonpie and I'll see you again soon!
I had to smile when I saw this. At the NOC I found the hiker register for 2005 and this was the comment Break-a-Leg put in it on March 31. We had hiked together from the start and would for another 300 miles. My comment was, "In for lunch, laundry,and then out." That made me smile also because later that afternoon we ended up checking in for the night.
Last night turned into a little party. About 14 of us were here. Mostly the people I've been seeing since the start. Like I've mentioned we are the forefront of the herd to come and it has already developed into a cool little group. Good people to be around. Unfortunately this may be the last I see of them because of my plan.
Moonpie made it to the NOC and we made our way to Sheltowee and Waterfall's place in Franklin. They were putting us up for the night. The main reason Moonpie had come down was to give a talk to the Nantahala Hiking Club that evening.The NHC takes care of 90 miles of the AT in the area. They are quite active and it was great to meet some of the members.
The one funny thing about meeting the member's was when one lady walked up to me and said, "Were you hiking in Vermont last October"? I looked at her while thinking how do you know that. "With that girl and her dog", she said. Again I was startled. "GG", I replied. "Yes! GG. we saw you two on Killington". Talk about a small world!
After the meeting Sheltowee, Waterfall, Moonpie, and I stayed up way past hiker midnight just chatting. The next day we all went to breakfast and then Moonpie and I headed to Newfound Gap. As we drove up the mountain to the gap the snow began to appear again and my apprehension began to build. She dropped me off, I shouldered my pack and began the 3 mile climb to the shelter. I am going to leave it at that because what transpires over the next 48 hours deserves an entry by itself.
I want to give thanks to Sheltowee and Waterfall for sharing their house and for their wonderful generosity. For any of those interested I first met Sheltowee on the PCT in '08. Of course I cannot leave out Moonpie! It was good to see her again. Thanks for everything Moonpie and I'll see you again soon!
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