Thursday, November 18, 2010

Spring to Summer

It has been awhile and a lot has gone on since the last post and it has been quite a ride since my last entry so here we go.

Matt and I ended up heading for New Hampshire three weeks before the caretaking season began. Our goal was to hike around and just check out a lot of places. This turned into a good thing, bad thing kinda deal. We wanted to be in the woods the whole time and we actually bought food for 21 days without resupply. What was funny about this was that Matt had never purchased food as a thru-hiker and he was totally amazed that you could feed yourself for three weeks on $70.00 dollars.

It didn't end up like what we wanted. There had been a late spring storm and the snow was deep on the higher elevations. Two days in , it was so deep we couldn't even figure where the trail was much less get to our destination so e turned back and decided to do a bunch of day hikes. We headed to the Dry River Wilderness area, much lower elevation and much warmer. We hiked around there for a couple of days, decided against a river crossing that probably would have killed us both and ended up at the OC,

One thing about the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club), our employers, they take care of you .... The OC is a cabin where employees can go for a very small fee. We went there for one night and then we went to Mizpah.

Ash, a dear friend of mine, was the spring caretaker there. Mizpah Hut is about 6 miles from Mt. Washington, the mountain that is synuomous with the Whites. We ended up hanging there for a few dats and did some hiking from there. Since I am writing this much later than we were there I wish we didn't go there. A lot of future pain evolved from those days .. not on my part .. it is a story that will not be told.

After Mizpah, Matt and I cruised around other areas of the Whites and then it was time for the season to begin. The season means caretaking at a site. I have chosen Liberty Springs as my site of choice ever since I started working for the AMC. I love that mountain! I love how close I am to Franconia Ridge! If any of you ever have a chance to get to New Hampshire make a point to hike up to Franconia Ridge .. trust me on this , you will love it (make sure it is a good day!)

I headed up to Liberty on Memorial Day weekend to begin my season in the Whites, I hiked 3.2 miles, all uphill with a damn heavy pack. I was bringing supplies in for the few holiday days and also for the summer. As someone told me later that summer, "The hike up this mountain is relentless!" I actually laughed at this but it is so true. Once you start the climb it doesn't end .. at least for the 2 miles to the campsite. Once you reach the cutoff to the Flume Slide Trail it is all uphill! There were a couple of times I just wanted to turn into a puddle of DNA when I reached my tent! I have hiked up and down this mountain many times in my three season here and there are days it kicked my butt, big time!

Enough for now .. In the next post I will bring everything up to date. Be well all.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Erwin, TN

Cyg and I were the last ones out of camp this morning but we didn't care. It was a beautiful morning and we only had six miles to lower elevations, town, food, and resupply. We were stoked and we hiked out. This mornings conversation dealt with pyschology and some of the experiments that have done on people in the past. Like I have said before, conversations can cover a myriad of topics. Three days ago we were discussing physics and the concept of a voule.

Our plan was to get to Erwin, go to the post office, grab lunch at the diner, go to the grocery store, and head straight back out of town to the next shelter, resupplied and with full stomaches. We hit the outskirts of town, passing by Uncle Johnny's Hostel, around 10:30 figuring we would swing by there on our way out. It took three cars before we managed to hitch a ride. I still and will always say it is SO much easier to hitch a ride when you have a girl with you!

He dropped us at the post office and from there we walked down the road to the restaraunt where we both ordered up a triple burger and extra fries along with coffee and a tea. We proceeded to try to fill that bottomless pit that was our stomache. After eating we just sat back, relaxing and marveling at how warm it was. I had actually changed into shorts and a T-shirt for the first time on this hike.

I was idly staring out the window when Cyg quietly said, "We could just stay in town tonight." I quickly looked at her and in a micro second said, OK, Fine with me;" We both started laughing and I accused her of being a bad influence to which she said something to the affect of having to try real hard to convince me!

So, I headed for the grocery store and she to the library. After taking care of business we met back up and started for Uncle Johnny's where we could get a bunk, laundry, and a shower for cheap. Later, we sat and chatted with Jacob and Gabe, brothers that were hiling but getting off for a bit to rest up an injured knee. I looked up and spotted Shlep coming off the trail. If we had pushed on we would have missed her.

The usual talk continued, food, where people were on the trail, food, injury, food ... Do you see a pattern developing here? It was great to just hang out. The hostel has a shuttle that runs into town three times a day so you could fill your belly at every meal.

To make a long story short we took a zero day the following and plans began to change. Jacob and Gabe were trying to get to NYC and Cyg was thinking of some time off and she didn't live to far from the city and I heard rumors of possibly having some work. At the all you can eat pizza buffet I ran my idea past Jacob and he thought it was a good one. The plan consited of me getting back to Atlanta, grabbing my car, coming back to pick up the three of them and then head to NY.

I called Jim and told him the plan. He said that if I could wait till Saturday he would come get me. That was fine with me and the rest of the group so we just hung out at the hostel. The weather had turned nasty again so hanging around outside was not an option. What do you do when you have a day and a half to kill. You play cards, talk,sleep, and learn to dance.

At one point on the trail Cyg and I were going over our "bucket lists" and I told her that I had always wanted to learn how to swimg dance. Little did I know that Cyg was a swing dancer so that Friday afternoon she proceeded to teach me the basics. The step is pretty basic (a six count step and the Lindy is an eight count) but it took me awhile to get the hang of it. After learning the step Cyg showed me the basic moves to get your partner to do a certain twist and the different ways to get her to come back. It was pretty amazing how just a change of hand position or pressure on the back communicates how the step out or return will go. It was a lot of fun and we spent at least an hour at it. Cyg was a patient teacher especially with two left feet like mine!

Saturday afternoon arrived and so did Jim. He threw out the, why don't you all come to Atlanta and you can leave from my house in the morning, line so we all piled into his car and went to Atlanta. Upon arrival at his place he treated us to pizza and some deadly cocktails. It was a very late night to say the least and we elevated Jim from "trail angel" to "trail archangel". Thanks for everything Jim!

The next day we started the long journey north and it rained the whole way. We made it as far as Philadelphia that first day and the next morning I dropped the boys off in Hoeboken, NJ so they could catch the ferry into the city. From there Cyg and I continued on.

By the time we reached her place I had had about as much driving as I wanted to do but there were still a couple of hours left for me until I hit Rob's place in MA. Cyg said I should just stay at her place and head out the next day. It didnt take a whole lot of convincing! From there the journey was soon over which brings me to now.

I am currently on Cape Cod working with a fellow caretaker from the Whites. We've been painting houses and we have one more to do. Starting on the 28th of April phase 2 of the adventure will start. We are going to go back to Rob's place and hike north on the AT from Dalton, MA and hopefully make it to Gorham, NH before we have to report for work. This will be about a 300 mile trek and we Are jazzed about getting started.

So, that's it for the first part of my 2010 AT trek. Phase two will be chronicled so stay tuned.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Hogback Ridge to No Business Knob Shelter

I was the first one up this morning. With our plan to do 20 miles we had to get an early start. Not that getting up was an issue! I had been awake for most of the night as it was. I had a rip saw snorer next to me and once I start "hearing" it I can no longer sleep. Not to mention I find myself falling into the breathing pattern of the snorer. This leads to prolonged periods of no breathing and then intermittent blasts of quick breath to long inhalations. Having 9 people stuffed in here meant I was right next to said offender! It finally reached a point where I flipped my bag around so I was at the feet instead of the head but by this time it was very early in the AM and soon time to wake.

I boiled water and woke Branch and Appleseed, who were with us that night. I figured I would get the water boiled before I woke Cyg. That way I could offer her water for her oatmeal and not have to deal with the early AM Cyg (OK, it's not that bad but I can take artistic license here).

Cyg and I did get out early ... We even beat Tattoo Joe out but that idea of supremacy was short lived as he caught up to us an hour or two later. The three of us hiked through the snow (yes, we are still in snow!) sometimes losing the trail but all in all having fun. After a bit Tattoo Joe decided it was time to leave the snails and move on. This was shortly before we arrived at Big Bald Mtn. where things became interesting.

All morning we had been hiking in and out of the snow. The skies were overcast but the trend seemed to be leaning toward clearing. Shortly before the summit of Big Bald the sun broke through the cloud cover. Cyg immediately started singing, "Here Comes the Sun". Sun is always welcome!

Well, we paid for that brief, sunny interlude, in spades! Within a short distance we were at the summit and the wind was ripping across the bald. It started pushing us toward one side and another as we tried to get across the top. Conversation was nill because of the wind noise. Tuck your head down and just GO! Oh, did I mention there was snow on top and it was a very, very cold wind. Add that into the mix of, Are we having fun yet?

We finally reached a spot where the wind died and there was a sign drawn in the snow showing the trail to be down the hill a bit. Problem was there were no footprints. We backtracked a bit and made our way down but the wind was not finished knocking us around yet.

At one point Cyg stopped to get out her gloves. Now, I've always had mental issues with Cyg and her gloves. My fingers can be ice cold and I have gloves on but she just hikes without them. In the wind I kept thinking her fingers were going to just drop off her hand like icicles off a roof. Her only comment was, "I need to get my gloves." I just nodded (because my jaws were frozen shut)wondering how this was going to be possible because I couldn't feel my own fingers much less move them.

She fished them out and we trudged through two more wind tunnels before dropping back below treeline where we proceeded to become misplaced yet again, for a short time. Finding trail in a lot of snow is not easy!

We hiked on, buoyed bY the adrenaline rush that Big Bald gave us and we soon made it to Big Bald Shelter, at 5100 feet and still with snow. It was around 11:30 AM and we had a decision to make, but not before it was hot lunch time. Rarely do one of us take time to actually cook lunch on the trail. Lunch usually consists of something you can throw together quickly. Cyg and I felt this day deserved a hot lunch.

We boiled our water for our perspective meals and considered our options. 10.6 miles to go along with a 2000 foot elevation drop or stay here and "mope" later on as Cyg put it. The key was Cyg's knee. It had been bothering her and we didn't want to push things if we didn't have to.

Neither of us said much as we ate but I think we had pretty much decided on the course of action. I finished eating, looked at Cyg and said,"Well?". She just looked out from the shelter and lifted her head toward the trail. We were hiking soon after that.

Little Bald came and went, still with snow but not like its brother Big Bald. We made it to High Rocks where the snow was disappearing and the sun was making a strong attempt to stay out. We to the trail to High Rocks and enjoyed the views from there for a bit and then moved on.

Spivey Gap came and went. The sun was out and the snow was gone. Amazing what dropping 2000 feet will do! Devil's Creek Gap approached and we were 2.5 miles from the goal for the day and it was around 5:30. I figured we would be in right around 7:00.

When you've been hiking with someone for close to three weeks you get to pick up on some of the subtle tonal inflections a person makes. I was tired and Cyg's feet and knee were feeling none to happy. At one point I made the mistake of saying something about how I thought we were pretty close (we weren't) and after about a half hour Cyg made a comment on how much further. I immediately flashed back to '05 when Feelin' Free and I were hiking out of Atkins, VA and how my "uh oh" radar went on then.

Cyg's testy tone, subtle though it was, meant I could be in big trouble if I didn"t tread this water very gently! Much to my relief we saw someone coming down the trail who pointed out the shelter was just around the bend. Whew, made it out of that one in one piece and without having to back pedal!

So, we did it. 20 miles and change. My first for the season and Cyg's first ever. It was not an easy 20 either with all the snow and wind. It was a well earned 20! Tomorrow would be a nice little 6 mile jaunt into Erwin. The weather looked promising. It would be a good day.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Hot Springs to Hogback Ridge Shelter

I left Hot Springs on a bright, beautiful, and believe it or not HOT sunny day. I didn't get out till 11:30 but I was only going 5 miles to the meadow above Hot Springs. I had camped there before and it is a great spot.

I reached the meadow area around 2:00, threw down my pad , and broke out my book. I spent the afternoon reading the first Harry Potter book again .. Story behind this which I will relate in another post (I have read them all already). The sun was hot and I was loving life!

The next morning I moved on and it was still a good weather day...amazing! Two in a row... Hard to wrap my mind around. I made it to Little Laurel Shelter around 4:00, pitched my tent and settled down. There is supposed to be some rain tomorrow so I was going to play it by ear on my mileage for the day.

The day dawned and it was a mixed bag. No rain yet but you could tell it was going to. I headedout and realized I was going to the NC ridgeline walk today. A few years back they re-routed the trail so it would take you up the mountain and you would walk on an exposed ridgeline for awhile. Very pretty walk unless you were on it today.

It was cloudy and very windy up there and all I wanted to do was get off the ridge which I did though in my haste I came very close to a major face plant ... Rock meet face, face meet rock .. I did avoid it but my hands took the brunt of the impact. After landing I rolled over onto my back and played the turtle game while trying to get back on my feet.

Around noon I reached Jerry Cabin Shelter and it had begun to sprinkle a bit. Jerry Cabin has a fireplce in it and I decided I didn't really want to hike in the rain so I gathered enough wood to last the day. The fire was started around 3:00 and around 4:00 Branch and Appleseed came by. They were going to go on but the fire was too irresistable so they came in for the night.

Around 5:00 Cyg rolled in. She had said she was going to catch up and by me doing a short day just made it that much quicker. She had done a 16 mile day to get here. A couple of hours later Shlep came in and I had to tease her about how heavy her pack was. She was carrying a LOT of food.

It rained during the night but by morning it had just become overcast. Overcast but cold. Everyone had headed out except for Cyg, Shlep, and I. Over the last little while I have realized that Cyg is not an early morning person so I just wait before she is packed before discussing the day. Today was going to be either an 8 or a 15 mile day depending on how we felt.

Cyg and I took off. Shlep was taking her time and she looked like she was determined to put a dent in her food bag before she even thought about leaving. We figured we may not she her anymore this day. Off we went, into the cold and into the snow as we climbed Big Butt Mtn. Because of all the snow the trail was a bit difficult to find in places but we made our way to Flint Mtn. Shelter where we stopped for lunch.

From there it was just another afternoon of hiking. Cyg usually leads and her hiking pace fits my style so we just chat away while we hike or just let our own thoughts take us wherever they want. We ended the day at Hogback Ridge Shelter and once again we were in the snow and it was cold. We did cram 9 people into a 6 person shelter so body heat kept things cozy.

One of the people we ran into today was Tatoo Joe. He is using the AT as a "warm up" for his Pacific Crest Trail hike. He and Scott Williamson have the record for fastest thru hike of the PCT and they are planning to try and beat it again this year. Very funny guy and I realized that I would never,ever be an ultra light backpacker. I enjoy the creature comforts I carry!

Tomorrow will be a first for both Cyg and I this year. We are looking at a 20.7 mile day. Again, it will all depend on knees and conditions. If we make it we set ourselves up for a short jaunt into Erwin the following day.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Standing Bear to Hot Springs

The four of us left Standing Bear around 9:00 under a slight rain however it stopped shortly after we left. We took off the rain gear and before we knew it Shlep was gone. She was into some fast hiking.

Cygnet, Subby, and I cruised along but after awhile Cygnet (Cygi) and I lost Subby on an uphill. She and I hiked on for most of the day. It was overcast and foggy for most of it and shortly before Max Patch we ran into two hikers coming south. The usual pleasantries were exchanged and then we found out they were heading to Hot Springs.

Cygi looked at me and at them and said, "So are we and I believe you are heading in the wrong direction". They had misplaced themselves on Max Patch and when we reached it I could see why. The fog was very thick and it was difficult to navigate. We drew arrows in the snow so Subby would find his way easier. We made it tobthe shelter and once again I set my tent up in the snow.

The following day ended up with Cygi and I hiking together again and once more it was under cloudy skies and mostly snowy ground. We did run into Carol and Donny who were doing a southbound stretch back to Standing Bear. Since they couldn't do the Smokies they figured they would get some hiking in.

We arrived at the shelter 3 miles outside of Hot Springs and set up camp. They goal was an early start the next morning so we would a full day in town. When you are hiking you want to maximize town time without having to pay for two nights in town so you lay up short the night before, roll in early the next day and if you plan on staying you only pay for a night.

Of course I was out first thing and I arrived in Hot Springs around 8:00. I grabbed a cup of coffee and sat in a rocking chair on the porch of the restaurant and waited for the others.

Cygi and Subby made it down around 9:00 with Shlep not to far back. We all piled into the restaurant for breakfast. After the server brought the food she looked at the table and told us she should have put us at a table for six. The table was filled with plates of food!

After eating we went to Elmer's and checked in. Elmer runs a B&B type place out of an old Victorian style building. The place itself is pretty cool and during hiking season he pretty much caters to the hikers. We got situated and then the town chores began.

You would think being in town would be for relaxing but there is a lot you have to take care of so you are running all around. Laundry, post office, figuring out how much food you need to pack out of town and then hitting the grocery store to get it. It eventually gets done and then you can relax.

The nice part about this stop was that the sun was out and it was warm. Actually warm. It was the first time in six days that I have seen the sun! It was a great day!

That evening the four of us went through a half gallon of ice cream while watching Blazing Saddles. After that it was bedtime. Subby and I were heading out in the morning. Shlep was taking another day in town and Cygi hadn't decided yet.

All it takes sometimes is a good day to make up for a lot of bad days out here though I wouldn't trade a minute of being on the trail no matter how bad.

Sunday, March 21, 2010

The Smokies

I started up the hill to Icewater Spring Shelter. Weather was moving in and a few light flakes were starting to come down. With only 3 miles to go I figured I might beat the snow. I did beat it, but barely. 5 minutes from the shelter it started coming down hard.

In the shelter were two guys who were in for the night and two who were out hiking and planning to go down one of the side trails. This is when I started hearing about what lay ahead. Supposedly three hikers who had started from Davenport Gap (where I was heading) had passed through and said it was really bad past Pecks Corner, 7 miles up. They had said it was the worst 3 days of their lives!

Hmmm .... I settled in and the two took off. The snow was coming down pretty good by now and I was happy to be dry and warm. Others rolled in for the night and then, around 5:30 the two that had headed out came back. They had made it about 1/2 mile past Charlie's Bunion which was only about a mile up the trail. "It's bad, waist high drifts and just hard going", they said.

By now the snow had lightened and I was beginning to question my idea to jump to Newfound Gap. Oh well .. Just have to see what's up in the morning.

Day 2 -- There were 4 to 6 inches of new snow in the morning. All previous footprints were buried by the new snow. I quickly made the decision to take "zero" in the shelter (a zero is when you do no miles for the day). I didn't want to brek trail and there were 3 others that were going on.

Everyone left and I settled in. I was warm and I spent the morning reading my book and watching as a light snow began to fall again. Early afternoon brought the arrival of Carol and Donny, two section hikers that were coming up from Newfound Gap. The road there had been closed to late morning. They had planned to go on but that put a cramp in there style. The three of us were planning on heading out the next morning.

It started to snow again and as I stared at it I heard voices. The three who had left earlier this morning show back up. "Not good", I'm thinking. They threw out the good news, bad news line. It good between here and Charlie's Bunion but after that it goes downhill fast. I am liking this less and less.

Around 5:00 two guys roll in from the north looking like death warmed over. They had started at Davenport Gap and they truly were at the end of their rope. Everything they owned was soaked and all they wanted was to be off the mountain as fast as they could. Again, "It's bad out there".

Day 3 -- Monday morning. Overall about a foot of new snow has fallen. Carol, Donny, and I were going to forge ahead. Four other thru-hikers had pulled in last night and they were going to follow shortly.

The tree branches sagged under the weight of the new snow and as the pathbreaker I was trying knock as much snow off them as I could before passing under. It didn't do much good and before long I looked like a snowman. The snow was deep and the trail somewhat hard to discern because of the new snow. The wind was pickimg up as we hit the ridgeline and if you took one wrong step you would sink to your thigh.

All I was thinking was "This is the good part"?. I really, really do not want to see the bad. About 3/4 mile in and a lot of work I came to a stop and looked back at Carol and Donny. "I'm not doing this. We still have 7 miles to go and we haven't even hit the bad stuff yet". No rationalization needed just plain common sense told me back out. So I did.

The plan now became, get to Newfound Gap and figure out a way to get to Standing Bear Farm just past Davenport Gap. Carol and Donny had followed my lead and the three of hooked a ride from Newfound Gap to Gatlinburg where we were able to get in touch with Curtis. Curtis runs Standing Bear and his wife Maria came to get us..

What a change! There is no snow. It actually feels warm and I have zero regrets about skipping the Smokies. I found that I was not the only one with that thought. At Standing Bear I met Shlep, Subbie, and Cygnet, three thru-hikers that jumped up because of the weather. The plan, as is with most hiker who jump up, is to pick up the section they miss at the end.

The four of us chatted, ate, and got into a wicked game of Jenga. Carol and Donny had gone into town and they brought us back some fresh fruit. Thank you so much for the treat!

So now the plan is to roll out in the morning with Cygnet, Shlep, and Subbie and make my way to Hot Springs, NC.

Friday, March 19, 2010

NOC to Newfound Gap

March 12 - 15 --- "You know you've been hiking too long when you look at the Nantahala River and think, what a great water source, to bad it is so close to town".

I had to smile when I saw this. At the NOC I found the hiker register for 2005 and this was the comment Break-a-Leg put in it on March 31. We had hiked together from the start and would for another 300 miles. My comment was, "In for lunch, laundry,and then out." That made me smile also because later that afternoon we ended up checking in for the night.

Last night turned into a little party. About 14 of us were here. Mostly the people I've been seeing since the start. Like I've mentioned we are the forefront of the herd to come and it has already developed into a cool little group. Good people to be around. Unfortunately this may be the last I see of them because of my plan.

Moonpie made it to the NOC and we made our way to Sheltowee and Waterfall's place in Franklin. They were putting us up for the night. The main reason Moonpie had come down was to give a talk to the Nantahala Hiking Club that evening.The NHC takes care of 90 miles of the AT in the area. They are quite active and it was great to meet some of the members.

The one funny thing about meeting the member's was when one lady walked up to me and said, "Were you hiking in Vermont last October"? I looked at her while thinking how do you know that. "With that girl and her dog", she said. Again I was startled. "GG", I replied. "Yes! GG. we saw you two on Killington". Talk about a small world!

After the meeting Sheltowee, Waterfall, Moonpie, and I stayed up way past hiker midnight just chatting. The next day we all went to breakfast and then Moonpie and I headed to Newfound Gap. As we drove up the mountain to the gap the snow began to appear again and my apprehension began to build. She dropped me off, I shouldered my pack and began the 3 mile climb to the shelter. I am going to leave it at that because what transpires over the next 48 hours deserves an entry by itself.

I want to give thanks to Sheltowee and Waterfall for sharing their house and for their wonderful generosity. For any of those interested I first met Sheltowee on the PCT in '08. Of course I cannot leave out Moonpie! It was good to see her again. Thanks for everything Moonpie and I'll see you again soon!

Friday, March 12, 2010

Hiawassee, GA to Nantahala Outdoor Center

March 7 - 11
"Whoa", I hesitated thinking I heard a voice but dismissed it. "Hey Bucko! I said Whoa"! I stopped realizing it was my body. "When are you gonna give it a break"?

Over the last several years I have learned to listen to my body when it speaks so I decided today was the day to "give it a rest".

Let me recap the events since Hiawassee. On Sunday morning around 9:30 I crossed into North Carolina. From my previous hike I knew what was in store for me shortly after crossing the border, the climb out of Bly's Gap. It is and wasn't a picnic. NC wants to make sure you don't think you're hot stuff for finishing Georgia so it humbles you quickly. What I had forgotten were the next two climbs. NC likes to send you straight up the mountain. Why waste trail with switchbacks when it can send you straight up!

It was early afternoon when I finished the climb up Standing Indian Mtn. and I was thinking that all was good because the climbs were over for the day. Haha jokes on you! What i hadn't thought of was the snow, lots and lots of snow, three to four feet of snow, all along the ridgeline which is where I was going. Normally the ridge walk along Standing Indian is a nice enjoyable hike. That day it was like I was being led to a Siberian labor camp.... Step, step, posthole, posthole, step, three more postholes, some of which were thigh high.

I had thought of going to Carter Gap Shelter but when I hit Beech Gap where there was water and a place to set up the tent I called it quits. It was the longest and hardest day up to this point. Needless to say I slept well that night!

The next day wasn't quite so bad. I ran into Brian and Peter about mid morning and we flip flopped around one another all day. We climbed Albert Mtn. which was the steepest climb up to this point. The three of us ended up staying at Rock Gap Shelter that night. The good thing about this is the weather has been sunny and warm though there was a chance of rain coming in the next couple of days.

The next morning I said my see you laters because they were heading into Franklin and I was pushing past. It was overcast but not cold and the ups and downs continued. Around noon I reached the Siler Bald Shelter split off and that is where I stopped for lunch. Good thing because things went downhill in a hurry after that.

If I thought the ridgeline after Standing Indian was bad I was not expecting the Bataan Death March that I hit on this afternoon. It was, by far, the most grueling and strenous 4.5 hours of hiking (if you can even call it hiking) I have ever done. Postholing ever other step, trying to figure where you can step without postholing then postholing to the thigh and then down to the knees with a double posthole. It did not seem it would ever end!

I finally reached the Wayah Bald Shelter. My feet, ankles, and knees were screaming at me and I was exhausted. I had never sworn at an inanimate object as much as I did that afternoon!. Three others came into the shelter that night and they also expressed the same feeling I had about the day.

So, here it is, the 11th of March. Yesterday there were only a couple of hours worth of postholing and then I could actually "hike". What a unique concept..walking without sinking to your knees.. It's almost enjoyable. At this moment I am at the NOC, Nantahala Outdoor Center, sitting in a bunkroom, out of the rain (and it is raining hard!), listening to my body. I have also made another decision for various reasons. I am going to cut my Smokies hike in half.

I am out here to have fun and hike until I have to go back to the Whites. During those long hours of postholing I kept thinking about how this was what I was going through when I blew out my knee it '08 on the PCT. There are far greater stakes this time, based on future plans, and I would be sorely pissed if something were to happen while I am doing something that really wasn't on the agenda in the first place. If I did tweak a knee it would put a huge cramp on the plans for the PCT/NZ adventure so I am going to get back on at Newfound Gap and do the last half of the Smokies.

That's it for now ... be well all

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Low Gap Shelter to Hiawassee, GA

March 4 - 6 ...... It is 9:10 AM on the 6th and I am in Hiawasee, GA. drinking a cup of coffee and writing this post. The goal for today is resupply and head back onto the trail. Last night I stayed at Deep Gap Shelter, 3.7 miles from the road to town. I was up and out early, hit the road, and caught a ride with the third car by. Not to shabby!

The last couple of days have been just wonderful! The sun has been out, it has been warm and the hiking has been good. Like I said in the previous post, walking in the snow is fun but it is starting to melt off quite a bit. In a few days we will be walking in the mud and slush. At night I have been setting my tent up right on the snow and I've been staying pretty warm. I think a lot warmer than if I were in the shelter. In the tent I am fully enclosed which helps retain heat.

One little story that made me laugh. On Thursday afternoon I came upon Peter and Brian. We talked about where we were going for the day. I said I was going to stop at the "cheesburger factory". They looked at me with the "huh" look. I laughed and said I meant the old ceese factory site but you know now what is on my mind. They were going to push on past there.

They left, I broke out the radio and was just be-bopin down the trail when I see someone coming toward me from the north. He gets close and says, "Are you the guy that's craving cheeseburgers"? I laughed and acknowledged the fact. He then proceeds to drop the bombshell. "Well, two guys just pulled in at Tray Gap and they are cooking up burgers for hikers." I just stared at him in disbelief, thanked him and took off.

Now Tray Gap was about a mile past where I was going to stay but I can stay anywhere and the burgers were calling! I reached Tray Gap and Brian started laughing, "I see you got the message", he said. I nodded and headed for the grill. What a treat! There were seven of us there drinking Mountain Dew and eating a couple of burgers. My earlier slip of the tounge turned into reality!

What happened with the burgers is known on the AT as Trail Magic. Trail Magic can come in many forms, from a full blown cook up like this, to a cooler alongside the trail somewhere loaded with drinks and goodies, to several gallons of water near a long waterless stretch. The people that do trail magic are past hikers and people that just appreciate the trail. Whomever it is they provide that little slice of heaven along the trail.

I a making good time. After I leave town today I will head up the trail about 4.5 miles To Plumorchard Gap Shelter and then early tomorrow morning I will cross into North Carolina. The weather looks to be good through Monday and then there is a chance of rain on Tuesday. Oh well, wet is wet and once you are wet you can't get any wetter.

Neel's Gap to Low Gap Shelter

March 3 - Neel's Gap is the home of the Walasi-yi Hostel and Outfitter. The AT actually goes through an opening in the building, the only place on the trail that does that. Here is where many a hopeful thru-hiker gets off the trail, realizing that it is not for them. It is also a place where many hikers regear, realizing they are packing way too much weight. I have seen several hundred to a thousand spent on new gear here.

Since the snow was coming down pretty heavily and the wind was blowing steadily I decided to call it a day. I got a bunk in the hostel (first time I have stayed here) and went to dry some stuff. Jim made it down and managed to get the shuttle back to his car. It was fun hiking with him the last few. Thanks for everything Jim!

The AT is like an accordion. Lots of folks spread out over many miles but there are certain things that compress the accordion. Things like certain towns, hostels, and weather. Weather is the great compressor because no one wants to be caught in a big storm!

With that said 23 hikers ended up at Neel's Gap on the night of the 1st. Over the next few days it will be bunched up and the accordion will expand again. My plan was to get out early, 7:00 AM which meant I would most likely be breaking trail. This plan lasted until I woke up. It was 21 degrees and the wind was howling bringing the wind chill to single digits if not lower. I may crazy but i am not that crazy!

Time moved along and 7 people headed out before I made my move. At least I didn't have to break trail (or so I thought). I trekked up the hill and into the wind.

Walking in fresh fallen snow is actually a lot of fun. Everything is so pristine white and when you get past the ridgelines the wind dies and the silent beauty is too hard to describe. I have never hiked for many miles in snow like this and I do like it. As long as you are warm you are good to go although, in the back of your mind you realize you are going to be hiking in wet socks and shoes for days to come.

I don't know how it happened but I started passing those in front of me. Soon I was number 3 which meant I was breaking trail with Peter and Brian, the 2 guys we had met early on. Breaking trail is not a lot of fun especially when you're going through thigh high drifts. Thank goodness most of the trail was under 6 inches of snow. All in all though it was a great day! 16 of us ended up at Low Gap Shelter, 11 miles up the trail.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Amicalola to Neel's Gap

We started hiking out of Amicalola around 2:00. My pack weighed in at 37 pounds. I am carrying a lot of clothes and I will be trying different combinations at night to see what keeps me warm. The rest I will send back with Jim when he leaves on Tuesday.

After about an hour it hit me. This isn't that bad. I wasn't looking for the giant oxygen in the sky and screaming for someone to bring a crash cart!. It really is amazing what 5 years and 5000 hiking miles will do to get you in shape and you don't realize it. All and all it was an easy childbirth. I didn't need the epidural at all!

Because of the late start we decided to stay at Black Gap Shelter, 1.5 miles from Springer. It was a good call because I have always hated rolling into camp and having to set up when it is dark. I like to enjoy some of the evening before darkness falls.

One real good thing is there is no snow on the ground. From all reports I expected a lot of snow. There are a ton of blowdowns on the approach trail however There were a lot of day hikers on the trail. I felt as if I were at Liberty Springs.

We made camp, ate, and drank a couple of one of Jim's recipies, The Cocoa Loco and then it was time for bed. Tomorrow we plan on about 15 miles to camp at Justus Creek.


I woke in the morning with a smile. My first thought was, "I am home". I probably had my best nights sleep in a long time last night. It was great!

The day's hike was good. The only problem was the weatherman. He lied. There was no sun, no 50 degrees, lots of wind and cool. You sure didn't stop long when you stopped for a break or lunch.. Since I usually leave camp first I set up place to meet for lunch and I motored on out. It wasn't too far past Springer that I ran into my first character out here. He was on the side of the trail, stuff from his pack strewn everywhere. He looks at me and asks if I want anything. He was doing a pack shakedown right then and there because he was too heavy. He had me laughing in no time. He reminded of the guy in Bryson's book. I almost completely lost it when he said his name was Overload. Funny guy and I did relieve him of some peanut butter!

At Hawk Mtn. Shelter we added 2 to our little group and the 4 of us ended up at Justus Creek. There was my first, "Wait, what just happened", moment. I looked around for the footbridge and then realized I had walked into a major newly opened relocation of the trail. It was pretty cool and I do look at trails differently since I have been working on them. This work looked like it was very well done. The only sad part is the trail now takes you away from the water.

Another day down and 15 miles from Springer. Good stuff!

March 1
-- Once again I was the first one out but we had made plans to meet up at Woody Gap. It was a beautiful day! The sun was out and there was no wind. I freely admit that I am a child of the sun. Sunny days just make me happy.

I moseyed along and hit Woody Gap about a half hour before the others rolled in. While waiting I ran into a "good 'ol boy" coming out of the woods. I was a little taken aback when I saw he had a bow slung on his pack! We got to talking and he said he had been in the woods since November. He was heading to town to get a new sleeping bag. Interesting fellow to say the least.

The four of us pushed on to Woods Hole Shelter, 3 miles from Neel's Gap. We wanted to be close because the weather is supposed to turn tonight. It was early to bed. I'm a little sore but into the trail (from the approach) about 36 miles. Feeling good.

March 2 - Woke up in my igloo this AM. It snowed and is snowing but I was toasty warm. I quickly packed, talked to a few of the hikers in the shelter, and realized I was going to be the one breaking trail today. I guess it is a good thing because going over and down Blood Mountain can get you lost on a good day. At least I had an idea of how the trail angled.

Being the first on the trail after fresh snow is a trip. Depth perception sucks and I kept jarring my legs and knees hitting holes where I thought it was flat. I reached the top of Blood Mtn. and started down. Honestly, I am glad I was first because I did spend 15 to 20 minutes searching for the trail. The snow covered everything and I knew the trail was not to far down the rock face. I finund it and then went back up to make a trail through the snow for those coming behind. Hopefully it doesn't gewed over before they hit there.

I made it down to Neel's Gap where I have decided to stay for the night. They have a hostel here and the weather is pretty crappy. For those of you that know them... Ramblin' Man and Baltimore Jack are here. Miss Janet is supposed to be here later today. She'll be running the hostel this season!

Saturday, February 27, 2010

The approach

The drive is complete. I left town around 8:00 AM with an eight hour drive in front of me. It was pretty uneventful until I hit the Atlanta area when things slowed to a tortoise crawl. I've said it before and I'll say it again, I do not know how people can live in an urban environment. Why in the world would you want to spend a good portion of your day in a vehicle! Even the so called HOV (High Occupancy Vehicle) lane was crawling along. It took me almost 2 hours to go the last 34 miles but I did make it.

It is now early Saturday morning and after we do a few things (I'm dropping it in the mail today, Ash) Jim and I will head to Amicalola Falls to start the trail. We had a good time catching up last night and it looks like I have a ride set up from where I decide to end this little hike. I am leaving my car at his place so everything is falling into place. When Jim told me he plan was to do the approach trail I cringed. That trail is a humbler of all aspiring thru hikers and it quickly weeds out the ones that think the Appalachian Trail is a mere jaunt.

It is 8.8 miles long from the start of the approach to the top of Springer Mtn., the "official" start of the Appalachian Trail. I did it in '04 and when I got to the top I wondered what I was doing out here. In '05 I rationalized that since I had already done it I didn't have to do it again! Here I am again but it may , and I use that word loosely, may be better because I am carrying much less pack weigh, body weight and I have hiked. There was one thing I told Jim though. I said the approach trail is kinda like women and childbirth. Very painful and you wonder what the hell but once it is done it recedes from memory and only the good remains.

I think I am going to give birth to a child later today!

I have no agenda or time frame out here this time. I will hike as I please and as fa as I please. Depending on our start time we may stop at the shelter before the top of Springer or push on thru. Either way we are just going to enjoy. I plan on taking it a little slow because I mentioned in m previous post that Moonpie will be in Franklin, NC on the 12th and I want to time my hike so arrive there then.

I do believe there will be a lot of thru hikers starting today and tomorrow. Monday is March 1 and that is one of the heavier star times for those that want to do the long walk to Maine. The weather looks very promising for the next 10 days. The only potentially bad day is supposed to be Tuesday. The temps look yo be in the high 40's to mid 50's during the day and the mid 30's to high 20's at night. I can deal with that! I am packing a LOT of layers. Warmth is my friend and I plan on keeping it a good friend!

So that's it. The day has come. I am ready to roll. I have not really decided how I am going to chronicle this hike yet. format wise. I guess it all depends on what kind of reception I have in the hills and how cold my fingers get while I am typing away up there. No matter what I will get posts to Ash and she will put them up. Here is a special shout out to you Ash ... Thanks for your help and I will see you in May!

Thursday, February 25, 2010

The time has come. It is hard to believe that I will be stepping onto the AT for an extended hike 5 years after my thru hike. It is a totally unplanned hike, unplanned in the sense that it was never on my radar until a couple of weeks ago. I have been looking at my A.T Guide (kindly provided by David Miller, aka AWOL) and seeing what I will be walking over again brings back memories so thick I just have to pause. Every shelter, every town, every brushy hill, deep gap, low gap will bring back the memories.

“Dreams aren’t perfect, they can come true, but they aren’t free“. I started my 2005 Trailjournal off with that line and that year the dream came true. Since then there have dreams that have come true yet there are those that I still pursue. How that first one changed my life is something I will never, ever, be able to express in words. Many of you that know me know how I feel and what I feel. The people I have met on the initial hike and since then are closer to me than all those people I met while working in the corporate world. Unfortunately, I am not independently wealthy and I do have to return to the corporate world in order to fund my next hike. However, there is a huge difference now, I can walk away when I want to. They no longer own me and I know I can survive without the “stuff”.

As I type this I have the TV tuned to a movie called “The Astronaut Farmer”. I have not seen it before and again, those of you that know me know I am a big movie freak. This one is about a rancher that builds his own rocket to go into space with. The name of the rocket, “The Dreamer” .. How appropriate! If we decide not to follow our dreams what are we? I am not talking about the monster dreams, follow small one and build to the big ones. There are still a couple in my head that may or may not ever happen, like flying in a fighter (and yes, civilians can do that) but I do know that if I had followed the same treadmill I was on 5 years ago things would be so much more different now.

The weather looks good for the first 5 days of the hike which means that a lot of the snow and ice will melt off. The weather this year has been horrible and I feel for the Southbound (SOBO) thru hikers. Again, for my non hiking friends these are folk that started at Mt. Katahdin, in Maine and hike to Springer. After my season in the Whites was over last year I hiked SOBO with GG for about 3 weeks. We went through Vermont and into Mass. together and the weather was none to nice. As a matter of fact it was darn cold, wet and snowy. I do expect a little more of this kind of weather as I head north from Springer. I will be hiking with Jim, “The Backcountry Bartender” for the first few days. I also found out that Moonpie will be in Franklin, NC on the 12th, about the time I will be in that area. It will be good to see her again. We hiked many miles together on the PCT in ‘08. Sheltowee already sent me a message saying he would pick me up when I get close!

I am in that last minute panic mode making sure I have everything wrapped up before I leave which today will be a hectic one. I've been adding little things to my list of "to get dones" before leaving town. My next post will come from Atlanta if I have time.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

It begins anew

Since my last update there have a couple of changes in the plans. To make a long story short I quit the job I had. It was an agonizing decision but something I had to do for my mental and physical well being. The agonizing part is that it may put a cramp in the plans for this winter. There is a financial goal I want to reach before I head to New Zealand and I may not reach that goal before December. If I don’t reach it then I will work through the winter and start The PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) in late April and then head to New Zealand after that. It will still allow for the endless summer but in reverse. I want to make sure I have enough money saved to do both adventures without having to agonize over every penny spent.

I have discussed this with Ash and if she doesn’t reach her goal then she will do the same. If she does reach it then she may head over to NZ and then meet up for the PCT. Again all of this depends on timing, money, and health. I do know that I will be on the PCT next year no matter what. That trail and I have a little score to settle!

I will be returning to the White Mountains of New Hampshire for another season of caretaking this summer. There isn’t a lot of time before I would have to head up there and I do have a work ethic. I do not want to approach a new employer, get a job, and leave with 6 weeks or so. It isn’t fair to them and goes against my morals. So, what do I do in the meantime. I have enough money to live on till I head up north and some saved for the journey. If I stay in town it costs more to live and I do not want to dip into the trip fund. If I go hike I can live for way cheap so guess what .. I am going to go hike!

On the 26th of February I am going to head to Atlanta where my friend, known as the “Backcountry Bartender” is going to give me a ride to Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. From there I am going to hike north for awhile, meaning that I will hike till it is time to head to NH. When I find out my exact start date of work I will head back to Atlanta, grab my car, and head to NH. The normal season for the Whites job starts toward the end of May but I may have some work there before the actual start of the season so my start date may vary. I figure this gives me about at least 2 months on the AT.

For any new readers, I did hike the entire AT in 2005. That year I left in mid March and after 2 months I was in Atkins, Virginia, 538 miles into the trail. Things have changed a lot since then. I am more experienced, weigh a lot less and can do double digit miles without thinking about it. In 2005 it took us 3.5 days to get to Neels Gap, Ga. Now, if I wanted to I could probably hit it in 2 days. I was talking with Clearwater the other day, a friend I met in ‘05 and have hiked many miles with. He says, “Cuppa, you could be in Waynesboro before you finish.” Waynesboro is the town just before the start of the Shenandoah’s. 853 miles into the trail. I laughed and said it would be cool because there is some pretty hiking in Virginia. No matter where I end up I plan on having fun.

One thing that hit me just before I start typing this up. Here I am heading back to the AT for a pretty substantial hike albeit not a thru-hike and this year is the 5th anniversary of the complete hike of the AT in ‘05. That kinda slapped me with an “Oh wow!” because I had not even though of that before.

Anyway, I will be keeping a journal of my hike on this blog. Ash has kindly accepted to be my transcriber (Ash, I know how you can write so feel free to add snide and cutting comments anytime you like into the entries J ) and another friend, Caitlin has offered to be backup. I will write daily updates though I may not be able to send them each day. No matter what they will eventually be posted. I have kept my journals from previous years on “Trailjournals.com” but I am posting on the blog for this one. I want to use trail journals for thru-hikes and attempted thru-hikes. That means my attempt of the PCT again next year will be on Trailjournals. I do hope you all follow along and I hope to be able to tell you a good story along the way!